Not only a charming costal Spanish getaway but Cadiz is the oldest inhabited city in Europe. Home to Lord Byron and Halle Berry’s orange bikini moment in Bond. The perfect affordable relaxing beach weekend with a dollop of culture.
Discover the charm of Cadiz
How to get to Cadiz
The closest airport is Jerez airport or you can travel by train from other Spanish cities or as I did flew in to Seville airport as couldn’t get a direct flight to Jerez. If you choose this route then from Seville airport you will need to take a 10/ 15 minute taxi or 30 min bus trip to Seville’s Santa Justa train station. From here there is a direct train straight down to Cadiz. There’s a fast train every few hours but only shaves off 20 mins the journey and it’s double the cost. So I took the slower one at 1 hour 40 minutes. I hadn’t booked in advance in case there were any issues with our flight but booked our tickets on the Trainline app once at the station. The app allocated our seats and so begun a smooth scenic journey.
Top tip – if you have luggage either sit with it or chain it to the racks as someone tried to take one of ours! They were stopped in their tracks, pun intended, but it was all fine but wouldn’t have been if I had nodded off! If the train isn’t for you and you have a spare couple of hundred euros you can get driven down from Seville! When you arrive at the station there will probably be a little queue for a taxi so if you can get off the train quick to be first! Or arrange for your hotel to collect you and some hotels are in walking distance.
Where to stay in Cadiz?
There are a wealth of choices as with an city but not that many of my usual princess standard at cheaper rates! I narrowed it down to two. Meliá at Playa Victoria Beach or in the city at The Parador. Typically, the beach would be the top choice, but with a drizzly forecast and off-season timing, I chose the city—and it proved to be the perfect decision!
Hotel was very unlike the rest of the Paradores family, very modern with huge rooms and great balconies all with a sea view. Though I would describe ours as more side sea view.
The bathroom gets special mention for its slightly over shary space and lack of privacy but the ever changing lights above the bath made up for it!
I found the staff a little stand off and not very attentive except for the barman ‘Jesus’ who served us on the first night in the downstairs bar and then greeted me at breakfast by name the next morning and offered me a job! The down stairs bar lacked atmosphere and the restaurant was pretty quiet – it could have been it was March but if you are looking for vino and a vibe head into town.
Breakfast, on the other hand, was simply stunning. It wasn’t just the variety of options; it was the breathtaking views. Floor-to-ceiling windows, which open up in the summer, offer an expansive views of the ocean, with unlimited cava. Our first morning it rained so we very happily sat eating and chatting watching the waves with our bubbles and our 17 helpings of breakfast!
Another strong factor for choosing this hotel was the most amazing infinity style rooftop pools which were just trumped by a higher terrace on the top. Though only open during the summer season, we could just admire this trip.
What to do in Cadiz?
In just 33.3 km² Cadiz is a compact charming city with the perfect amount to do for a long lazy weekend. Take a tourist bus tour, bike tour or day trip for sherry tasting in Jerez, spend lazy days on the beach at Playa Victoria – a short cab ride or 50 minute walk from the city centre. Some of the stand out’s for me were:
Wander the waterfalls at Parque Genoves
If you like gardens then you are in for a treat. Visit the perfectly kept Parque Genoves complete with waterfalls and those amazing Spanish trees with the huge roots. The park is right by the Hotel Paradores. There’s a cute little seasonal cocktail bar La Colonial Alameda which in summer has tables in the gardens – definitely good for a sangria stop!
Explore the oldest fish market in Europe
If you really love fresh fish or history then you can visit the worlds oldest fish market Plaza de la Libertad, but maybe not after a night on the sangria!
Visit Cadiz Cathedral
Cathedral of the Holy Cross over the Waters was built in 1838 after over a hundred years of work and today you can climb one of the towers for panoramic city views.
Be Halle Berry for the day
If you are feeling brave then you could pop on an orange bikini and head to the smaller beach Playa de la Caleta. Yes you could be Halle Berry for the day! Recreate the famous scene as she emerged from the water and strolled over to Bond, James Bond. Sadly the beach bar in that scene was just built for the film then tore down and James Bond won’t be there. Fun fact I worked on that film in a previous life though in the storyline they were in Cuba not Cadiz.
Where to eat in Cadiz?
La Candela Tapas Bar
When a restaurant is heralded as the best tapas in Cadiz, I had to experience it for myself and Candela lived up to it’s reputation. Authentic Spanish vibe, great food, fun and helpful waiters and I was shocked at how cheap it all was! If you fancy some of the best tapas then definitely book – I tried emailing, DMs and calling and failed so enlisted a friend who grew up in Cadiz to help! If you don’t get a response try asking your hotel to call for you or you can chance a walk in.
Taberna Casa Manteca
Taberna Casa Manteca famed for being Rick Steins favourite tapas in Cadiz. It’s a tiny tapas bar, perch on stools and enjoy very traditional, authentic terrific tapas.
Café Royalty
The Café Royalty step back in time to 1912. This stunning restaurant was restored to meticulous detail in 2008 after never reopening after the second world war. Experience the past with a royal breakfast, which Conte Nast voted one of the top 5 in Spain.
Chiringuito El Potito
Down at Victoria beach, Chiringuito El Potito is perfect if you like your beach restaurant to actually be on a beach. A classic Spanish beach restaurant.
La Marea
Also at Victoria beach, La Marea fish restaurant, set back from the beach so better for dinner, feast on all the fish washed down with wonderful wines.
Restaurante Musalima
Musalima with a beautiful bar to enjoy a drink at or also featuring a fantastic fish menu. A great vibe and staff made this a firm favourite.
Rooftop Bars in Cadiz
Even in a small city I managed to find a few rooftop bars. My favourite was at the Hotel Olom as you could almost touch the cathedral plus had a pool and plenty of space when it must get busy in summer! For more on them and some rooftop pools click here.
Final thoughts on Cadiz
A cosy captivating and affordable seaside city. It was ideal for a long weekend where mooching, tapas and wine was the priority. Or a sunny spring board for travelling round Spain.