Stunning Seville, the capital of Andalusia, home to orange trees that turn into wine, in a magical fairytale land that transports you to a galaxy far away. With an array of amazing rooftop bars, golden sunsets and incredible tapas, this Spanish gem is an ideal destination for a weekend getaway all year round.
Discover Sensational Seville
How to get to Seville?
Seville has an international airport though it is surprisingly small and very limited shops and food airside – so take snacks for your return. Getting into Seville is super simple as it very close to the city. The airport bus has a direct route and takes about 30 minutes for just a few euros. Located outside the departure terminal, you can buy tickets at the machines or on board with cash. Or if you are bringing luggage or just like the ease of being dropped directly at your hotel then there are fixed tariff taxi’s just outside that take 15-20 minutes for an extra 20 Euros.
Where to stay in Seville?
I found choosing a hotel in Seville a real challenge. Much like Malaga, there just seemed to be so many of a similar standard. You can of course go super fancy and stay at the famous Hotel Alfonso XIII but I’m not a massive fan of old luxury and nor is my budget. Plus I love a modern hotel with a rooftop bar and pool. (Shockingly!) I whittled it down to two. The new Radisson and Hotel Fernando III (not just because of its fun name!). The latter won simply because they guaranteed their rooftop bar and pool would be open in March and bonus it was cheaper. My biggest rooftop top tip is always contact hotel/rooftops before booking accommodation. I have learnt the hard way being caught out by private events/ hires, closed out of seasons or not wet & windy proof.
The standard rooms were small but as we would only be in to sleep, it didn’t matter.. Super clean with a coffee machine. (That wasn’t meant to rhyme!) Bathroom was teeny but modern, with a proper hairdryer but no conditioner! What is that about!? Breakfast was downstairs in a windowless room but an adequate standard buffet. And a cute bar for a nightcap! A solid city base hotel.
However this hotel was hiding an incredible rooftop bar & pool,. Cielode was the hotel’s crowing feature just as I had hoped! A spacious terrace featuring a compact yet well-stocked bar is situated just below the pool area, offering an elevated rooftop vibe. Although the pool isn’t heated and it was March, it still provided perfect relaxation surrounded by stunning views of the cathedral. Ample loungers with securely fastened sun umbrellas line the poolside – this was a rooftop revelation as I have seen these go flying before.
How to get around Seville
Seville is a surprisingly small city which makes every where accessible on foot. However if like me and running late for dinner happens on holiday, then the taxi’s are cheap, no ubers but prices on par. There is also the city tram line. Not quite full of the character of the likes of Lisbon trams but a convenient and cheap way to travel the city. Tickets can be found at the tram stops machines, where there are also maps or use this one.
Best Restaurants in Seville
I heard that you would find it hard to find bad tapas in Seville, unlike my experience in Malaga where I found you can! Everyone I met concurred but I hadn’t risked it and so had done my homework and booked.
Restaurante Recoveco
Recoveco is a rooftop restaurant with stunning views over the city. The food was in perfect harmony with the breathtaking views—a rooftop treat as sometimes you do compromise for views! There is a glass-enclosed indoor area on the rooftop, allowing guests to enjoy the scenery while staying warm, particularly appealing for visits during the off-season.
Guadalquivir Restaurant at Casa Manolo Leon Garden
This might just be one of the prettiest restaurants I’ve ever been to. Casa Manolo Leon garden is an intimate dining experience. Decorated in greenery, foliage and lanterns diming here is stepping into a magical fairyland. It remind me a little of A Mi Manera in Ibiza but a lot smaller. The venue has several other options so to be sure to pick the garden.
The food at the venue was just as amazing as the setting. It’s not just about style here; substance reigns supreme. Being served the largest portion of lamb I’ve ever seen, coupled with impeccable service, this spot is a dinner must if you’re in Seville.
Two restaurants to possibly avoid
In my research two places popped up as both, must go’s and with questionable reviews. So I decided to see for myself and I should have listened to the reviews. I appreciate this is one day out of 365 in a year but it was my experience so I am sharing so you can decide for yourself. The Mariatrifulca rooftop restaurant– looked fabulous with amazing river views but I found them quite rude. I was on a wait list for a table but when I went to check if one had come up, I was glad it hadn’t.
The other disappointment was the oldest tapas restaurant in Seville, El Rinconcillo. Same issue with the attitude. For the sake of history it’s definitely worth a drink and small tapas dish but there’s friendlier and better places for tapas!
Best bars and rooftop bars in Seville
I always hunt down the best rooftop bars and Seville was giving rooftops! Awash with some amazing choices, and incredible prices – a few Euros for a rose in some, I was in my element. For all click here but special mention goes to:
La Terraza Del Eme
This is one of the most famous and boujee rooftop bars in Seville, so if you want to drink on top of a classic with 360 views then this one is for you.
Pura Vida Terraca
Pura Vida is a personal favourite. Quirky signs, different areas and kind staff, it also was quite unknown, I may have ruined that! But it deserves to be experienced by all. And when I went, it was the cheapest!
Hotel Alfonso XIII Bar
If you like old fashioned elegance then head for a drink to Hotel Alfonso XIII – one of the most luxurious and expensive hotels in Seville. Still our drinks were no more than London prices!
What to do in Seville?
Rooftop Sangria Tasting
Sangria tasting on a rooftop bar – I was made for Seville and suspect you may be too. La Terraza del Cristina offer different experiences from paella making to sangria tasting on their private rooftop. No surprises I booked the latter! The serving sizes we super generous so much so, we couldn’t finish them all! Sadly the size of tapas of cheese and olives was not. We naively skipped lunch and a slice of cheese was not enough for this much alcohol. They were kind to give us more but it wasn’t enough. So either go on a full stomach or take snacks!
Aside that I would highly recommend this for something different in the Spanish sun and I learnt that the grape must ferment for 7 days. If it’s only left to ferment for 3 days it doesn’t produce any alcohol if you ferment for 7 days then it’s 11% mix with 15% of club soda and fruit and voila Sangria!
Climb the Torre del Oro the Emblem of Seville
The bonus of the sangria tasting experience the rooftop overlooks the Torre del Oro, Seville’s emblematic landmark. Dating back to 1220, situated south of the river it was originally part of the city walls. You can admire it with your sangria or from inside as you climb to the top! (Spoiler – no sangria there) marvelling at this Golden Tower. Nicknamed as it once adorned with golden tiles – what a shining sight that must have been in Seville.
Visit Plaza de Espana
One place that stole my heart was the Plaza de Espana. Which for Star Wars fans (yes I am a Jedi) also doubles up as the planet Naboo – sadly I didn’t see R2-D2 😉 But I did see the most stunning Spanish version of Venice.
Constructed in 1929, so not steeped in centuries of history, it does exudes a magical ambiance. Nestled within the Maria Luisa Gardens, it beckons visitors to explore the entire park. Wander down to the picturesque Plaza de America and get your camera ready for some picture perfect gardens.
It reminded me a lot of a smaller Central Park with different pockets or nature, architecture and horse and carriage rides. There is a feeling that you can escape here for as long as you need.
See a Flamenco show
The famous flamingo dance originated in Seville so to see a show is a real treat. It would have been for me however I am still traumatised from seeing one in Madrid, in a basement when it was 30 degrees, with a hangover. Don’t do that. But even then I could recognise and respect how utterly beautiful, elegant and full of passion it is. But once was enough for me. If you are more sensible then there are plenty to choose from.
Visit the Royal Palace Alcazar
The Royal Palace ‘Alcazar’ is the oldest in use palace in Europe. Though learn from my mistakes and get your tickets online before you come, as it is in high demand. As I did not it means I have a great excuse to come back and meanwhile we were able to enjoy more sangria on more rooftop bars.
Go shopping
El Corte de Ingles is a shopping centre full of Spanish boutiques and even Brussels best chocolates. If it isn’t raining then on top can be found a rooftop restaurant, Gourmet Experience Duque. So you can shop and rooftop away from the streets of Seville.
Marvel at La Setas ‘the mushrooms’
La Setas or the mushrooms as they are fondly known due to their shape. are to be admired whether you climb to the topor sit for free at the rooftop bar opposite. This weird and wonderful wooden creation was inspired by the arches of Seville’s cathedral, has a bar on top and a museum in the basement. Hours of entertainment.
Experience the Seville Orange
A true experience you can’t capture in a photo or even with words, is the overpowering sensational smell of Seville’s orange trees. The urge to pick and eat one is high but they may smell good, they do not taste good! Used for two things, to make marmalade and orange wine. Sweet like port, slips down a little too well and a potent (the wine more than the marmalade!). Both make a great gift for those back home.
Final thoughts on Seville
Located along the Guadalquivir River, Seville has an enchanting allure that took me by surprise. It’s not just the abundance of sensational rooftop bars or the affordability of the city; it’s the sheer magic that permeates its streets, captivating every visitor and I hope you feel that too.