Perfectly pretty Porto where the rain fall in October was more than London! I don’t know why I was expecting endless blue skies and stunning sunsets. Well, I do… damn you Instagram! Summer yes, winter yes. Autumn less so! So choose your season wisely especially if you are a rooftop bar sun seeking addict like me! That said, I was impressed with some of the rooftop bars resilience to the rain! More on them here.
Of course some summer days will bring showers and some autumn days will bring brilliant blue skies and some autumn days will bring it all… in one hour! I couldn’t help but likened Porto to Edinburgh. Not just in the unpredictability of the weather but both cities share the charm of cute cobbled streets and rich in history. So in Autumn prepare a plan B – as when it rains, it pours! (Thankfully a plan B can consist of more port tasting!)
Thankfully when it’s dry Porto is a picture perfect postcard destination. Situated along the scenic Douro River it does promise magical sunsets, the majestic Dom Luis I Bridge and of course all the port! So read on in my travel guide for Porto to discover where to stay, which port houses you need to visit and of course the best rooftop bars this charming costal city has to offer.
How to get to Porto
Porto’s nearest airport is Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport or Porto airport. The choices to get into the city are the usual private transfer, taxi rank, Bolt/ Uber or as I opted for – the metro. If your hotel is close to a metro stop, you are travelling just with hand luggage and keeping costs down, then this transport mode is for you. It did appear super simple but I still managed to get a bit lost. Once you are land side head right, to the end of the building, down the escalators and through the car park (yes that’s the bit that threw me) and follow the signage.
Then follow the signs for the ‘Trindade’ stop on the purple line. There are ticket machines and you could also tap. Super easy. I then just changed to the yellow line when at Trinidad (how did we survive without google maps!) Took about an hour – double the time of a taxi but at a couple of euros I couldn’t really not!
Note for your return journey back at the airport, I was surprised at how big departures was. Lots of shops and eateries. Don’t get caught out though sipping that last drop of port – you still have passport control to get through before your gate. And like everywhere there wasn’t nearly as many options to eat or drink once through passport control. So time it carefully to maximise your airport experience without missing your flight.
Where to stay in Porto
There’s so many choices depending on what you want from your trip and where you want to be located. Do you want to be in the heart of this historic city or on the sun kissed shores of the Douro River? I chose the latter. The city is small and everywhere is walkable. Plus and I am a sucker for being near water especially when they have rooftop bars on their hotel rooftops!
Your requirements may be slightly different to mine so here’s my shortlist: The Rebello Hotel – featured in the small luxury hotels of the world. This is perfect for a slower trip where you want a hideaway but happy to venture out. For me, it was just a bit far out.
The Yeatman – where there’s a wine themed spa!!! No prizes for guessing why I was looking at this vino haven, sadly it was over budget. And in fourth place we have the Eurostars Portobello Douro which I also didn’t choose as I was worried it was a bit far too. Actually with this hotel, it would have been fine and was lovely.
In the winning spot, I decided on the Vincci Porto de Ferro hotel. A small perfectly located boutique hotel just over the Dom Luis I bridge. One of the more pricier options for Porto but I managed to get a great deal on booking.com. And it was so worth it, not just because of the wow views or due to the rainy weather I spent more time here than planned but it was on the side of the of the port houses known as the Vila Nova de Gaia area so easy to stumble there and back!
Checking in with Claudia was a pleasure – so helpful and kind. She was a font of knowledge throughout my stay. The room was well thought out – helpfully placed USB ports, a coffee machine and a kettle (though only one random tea bag!) But a lovely touch of a plate of pastel de nata’s and a test tube of port, made up for that!
However there was no conditioner. This always baffles me as it is so unhelpful for anyone (like me) who packed their toiletries that tiny plastic bag assuming conditioner would be standard amenity.
The bed was firm and the pillows too big – you know the kind that look like you need to jump into but actually not so practical for sleeping on. However the view out the window made up for everything. It was breath-taking. The architectural masterpiece of Dom Luis I Bridge is memorising day as it is by night as it towers over the river Douro. And of course, this hotel boasts one of the best rooftop bars in Porto.
And top tip – if you are on a budget then there is a cash and carry called Recheio. It’s a 10 minute walk from the hotel along the Vila Nova de Gaia area. As its a cash and carry, you need to be a member. But they had a small section for the public, where I picked up wine, water and snacks.
Where’s the best port tasting in Porto?
Exploring Port tasting in Porto is like taking a delicious journey back in time. In this city, the famous wines from the Douro Valley are aged in old cellars, each bottle telling a story of careful craftsmanship. You can check out these cool cellars, learn about how the wine gets its unique taste, and discover why Port tasting in Porto is an experience you won’t forget. However, there is so much choice it can feel a bit overwhelming for a novice. From some of the world’s most famous port producers to small side street bars that offer €5 for 5 ports to taste! There is something for everyone and every budget.
I started classic with ‘Ferreira’ – which also holds the story of the first woman to lead a port house. Dona Antónia Ferreira took over the family business in the mid 1800’s and became a port powerhouse! This is more a traditional tour of the cellars and its history followed by tasting of 3 ports in a group setting.
Next I tried was ‘Sandeman‘ port – the most awarded port in the world! This is more of a theatrical tour, with characters dressed up and its location is right by a rooftop bar at another port house: Porto Cruz for port hopping!
Lastly, I tried another classic, Grahams. This famous port house is a bit further out. I would advise an Uber as the roads leading up to it felt a bit unsafe to walk on with no pathways. But it was worth the climb with stunning views over Porto, a perfect location for a long lazy port filled lunch as well as tastings. However I did find the staff a little more stuffy and less friendly than the other port houses which considering the effort to get there was a bit disappointing.
One thing to note is some of the port houses are owned by a company called Sogrape. When booking it can seem like you are booking the same one twice but its just as they look the same on their website. And do book online. This goes for all port houses. Port tasting is why most people have travelled to this Portuguese corner of the world, so they are popular. Plus they run different tours for different languages at different times. You can risk it and turn up but it’s less likely there will be availability on the day for your language if you do.
What to eat in Porto?
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau described as ‘a codfish cake, an icon of the Portuguese cuisine’ or as I like to call it, a cheesy cod fish cake that’s not actually that fishy to taste! (You can have without cheese) and is the most amazing hangover food I’ve had in a long time. I need this place in London and they big bonus they are gluten free.
Plus the only drink they serve is, of course, port! You even get to keep the port glass as a souvenir. (I may have a small collection now.) In Porto there’s two restaurants, if I can call them that. It is more like immersing yourself into an artistic world of literature, paining, music. Over in Porto town you’ll find a three story building where you can order and eat alfresco on their outdoor seating, inside upstairs with a chandelier or in the library room at the top!
The larger version in Vila Nova de Gaia has an incredible stairway and indoor balcony with little seating areas to enjoy your port and cod whilst being entertained by an organist. (Not so good for a hangover).
Pastel De Nata
Another Portuguese specialty – the custard tart, which if you have been to Lisbon will know how amazing they are fresh! I found a gluten free little café in Porto city called Com Cuore café. It was cash only, very popular and utterly delicious.
Best Restaurants in Porto
Dining out in Porto is the surprise secret of this coastal city. I wasn’t expecting this to be such a culinary adventure and I am not even a foodie. You will be spoilt if you are. But ensure sure you book. These popular eateries may look like they have plenty of availability but they suddenly fill up. Enoteca, Flow and Cantina 32, were all on my list that because I didn’t book I didn’t get to try (as I had high hopes for sunset rooftop restaurant dining). As you would expect from me there’s some amazing rooftop restaurants that due to the rain I only managed lunch on but I will be back for those balmy summer evenings for dining overlooking the Douro River.
McDonalds
Not usually one even consider recommending a McDonalds! But on Avenida dos Aliados is one of the boujeeist McDonalds I’ve ever seen. It is considered the most beautiful, of the chain, in the world. It opened in 1995 taking over the space that once housed the1930’s Imperial Café. McDonald’s has preserved its initial decor, maintaining features like the art deco stained glass and the distinctive eagle emblem. So a small fries at the very least is a must!
Majestic Cafe
Majestic Café is café is considered to be one of the most beautiful cafe’s in the world. Famed by JK Rowling who would come and sit and write when working on her first Harry Potter book. And doesn’t everyone on Instagram know it! The queue and prices reflect this! Still, it is stunning and worth a visit even for a coffee.
Mercado Beria-Rio
On the Vila Nova de Gaia (the port house side of the river) you’ll find Mercado Beria- Rio. Full of eateries, for all tastes if you don’t fancy a proper sit down lunch in between all that port tasting!
Mitu
Mitu is a tapas Portuguese restaurant that was incredible (also owned by the same group that own Flow). Not cheap if you eat as much as we did but when the food is this good and it’s tapas then you can fully justify ordered more plates!
Best bars in Porto
For speakeasy drinks vibes then add Curiouso cocktails and Prova to you list (especially if it’s raining and you can’t be on a rooftop bar). And handily they are practically next to each other!
Rooftop Bars seem to operate whatever the weather, maybe it is all that port but it was impressiv ethe resilience to the rain. To find you perfect one click here.
What is there to see and do in Porto?
Aside the tapestry of tapas, local delicacies and some of the finest wine, Porto is also home to a wealth of culture and art. The incredible architecture, the UNESCO listed Riberia district, the colourful buildings, gorgeous gardens and Harry Potter history! Starting therefore with the The Lello Library or ‘Livraria Lello‘ – the most famous and beautiful bookstore in Porto. Made even more popular as legend has it, it was the inspiration for the staircase in Harry Potter. At peak times, it advisable to book. But don’t worry if you haven’t – there are shops and rooftop bar, Base opposite to wait on or in.
Sao Ben train station. This is is not just a train station – this is an art gallery. I likened it to the beauty of central station in New York, though this station is a lot smaller. Filled with around twenty thousand tiles reflecting Portugal history this is a destination in its own right.
Visit the Chapel of soul. This is for all those instagrammers, the famous blue building on Rua de Santa Catarina, 428 to pose in front of for your feed. These beautiful blue building are actually covered in ceramic tiles
Take a ride down the Douro River. There’s a host of different options from the traditional Portuguese Rabelo boats to sailing drinking champagne at sunset or for the young ones there’s even party boats.
The Ponte Dom Luis I bridge stands as an iconic emblem of Porto. Named after King Luis I of Portugal it connects the historic Ribera district and the vibrant Vila Nova de Gai. It is also home to many of the port houses, as mentioned earlier. It has a pedestrian-friendly upper deck or drive across its lower level both offering panoramic views of Porto’s skyline and the Douro River.
Obviously my favourite way to enjoy this magnificent masterpiece was sat on a rooftop bar! For the best views of the bridge from a rooftop bar in Porto then it has to be Sky Bar at Vincci de Ponte hotel. More on it here.
There is also a cute very tourist trap bar Ponte Pencil on the other side of the bridge underneath that had incredible views. Service was dreadful but it worth it for a drink!
Where are the best sunsets in Porto?
When I researched and planned this trip, I was so excited for the sunsets. It’s my favourite time of the day to be on a rooftop bar. There’s something so magical and full of promise about them. And it seemed Porto take them very seriously as a ritual to reflect on the day. Gatherings in gardens, rooftop bars brimming with anticipation, the Dom I Luis bridge brilliantly silhouetted. I was so ready.
However turned out that sunsets in October are mainly hidden by clouds. So sadly I will just have to go back in the summer to see them! But should you be going then my research won’t go to waste! Obviously the rooftop bars are my first choice for seeing that canvas of captivating colours explode in the sky but the gardens of Porto are hugely popular. Jardins do Palacio de CristaL and Parque da Quinta Macieirinha were high on my list, grab a picnic, a bottle, a blanket and for free sit in awe and pause.
Day trips from Porto
