Discover where the glamourous Italians’ escape the city in the summer. With stunning scenery and located along the northern Tuscan coast. This is where the Hamptons meet the beaches of Miami in Europe. If you are looking for a pure indulgent of rest and rose, boutique shops, beach clubs and biking as a way of life then read on!
Discover the Fabulous Forte Dei Marmi
How to get to Forte De Marmi
I chose the nearest airport, Pisa (though it’s very accessible from many Italian cities) I had arranged an airport transfer despite an excellent train service as it was late. Booked through Airport Taxi Transfers, within an hour of landing we were through security and checking in at our hotel.
For departure was all straight forward, we had checked in online and had no luggage so sailed through. What appeared to be a big airport became very small airside. 3 shops all similar, 2 tiny cafes selling mainly pizza – so don’t go any earlier than needed and buy all souvenirs on your hols or you’ll be disappointed. And remember snow globes contain liquid… nearly didn’t fit in my plastic bag!
Where to Stay in Forte Dei Marmi
The first thing to note is that this is beach club culture. Only a few hotels also have a pool as they pair their hotels with beach clubs opposite. If you want a sea view in a great location and love this lifestyle then I would look at Principe Hotel. Sadly it was out of my budget but my friend found a charming hotel, California Park Hotel, nestled in a quiet street up from the beach with a pool. It felt like an oasis of calm and tranquillity, oozing with character. As it was my friend’s birthday, they had a bottle of Prosecco waiting for us in the room. They couldn’t have been more attentive and thoughtful. A great arrival!
This boutique hotel feels like you’ve stepped back in time but with all the modern amenities you need – such as door handles still on the room doors but a touch key card to actually lock the doors.
We had a standard room with a balcony that looked out onto bushes so we didn’t really need the balcony. The room was fine, not the best I have stayed but totally adequate with a modern bathroom.
Breakfast was served in the gorgeous gardens. The choice was more limited than I’m used to but it’s a smaller hotel than am used to! Cold buffet was as expected but the hot was thin on choice – just scrambled eggs and bacon (unless you wanted to pay more for off the menu which felt a little tight).
The pool area is small but beautifully maintained with thoughtful picture-perfect areas to chill in with cabanas, sofas, rocking chairs, and the most comfy sun beds ever, and with chill out areas are in the shade too.
Staff are friendly and clientele was older but we were out of season – it’s very much the place for Italian families in July and August where all ages descend. One lady I met told me that in the summer it is pool in the morning, lunch at a beach club, snooze by the pool late afternoon, dinner at the hotel, bike up to town for late night shopping to ditch the kids would then go out out partying!
What to do in Forte Dei Marmi
This really is a flop and drop destination but there’s plenty of places to explore including the vast beach club options!
Visit Forte Dei Marmin Town
The only way to do this is on bike! Well of course you can walk/ get a taxi and the hotel I stayed in ran a €10 shuttle if you want to go that bit further, but bikes are the way of life here – the pavements are marked more for bikes than pedestrians. And they even do tricycle hire for those less balanced – yes I had one of those.
Visit the Market
On a Wednesday and Sunday mornings is their market. It’s like no other market I’ve been to – stall to stall of cashmere, leather jackets, swimwear (and yes little changing rooms) it’s worth a bike ride up to see the Italians in action and boy are they fast! I found it a little grabby and pushy but still found me a bargain. A coffee taking in the gorgeous town is a must before heading back to the beach for some well-deserved lunch and an aperol spritz just as it gets too hot to shop anymore.
Relax at one of the many beach clubs
Forte Dei Marmi has one huge long stretch of beach – it’s vast in length and depth. One the most stunning places lined with beautiful beach clubs and Instagram worthy beach huts.
Being September, a lot of the clubs were either only open for lunch or dinner or neither! It’s fascinating how a month earlier this place and then just like that it’s so quiet. If you are coming in season, then it’s essential you book. You may be fine to rock up but you certainly won’t get the seat you want aka closest to the ocean – and by close I mean actually you may need binoculars. But the view down to the sea is stunning – an aisle to the ocean in fact. On either side of the aisles are sun loungers to hire and not just a lounger – you can hire table and chairs, shade, a storage box etc. They know how to do beach time here!
Also to note about the beach is in fact privately owned by each club, so you can’t pitch up with a towel and sunbathe at the water’s edge. There are lifeguards at regular intervals who will move you along. They call the water’s edge the walking beach – whilst you can walk up and down it – you can’t stop! Except to jump in the sea! I would fully recommend it – especially for nervous swimmers – it’s shallow for quite some way out.
Take a day trip to Pisa
Just 35 minutes on the train you too can be the proud owner of a picture holding up the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Click here to read where the best place to get the photo from.
Visit Pietrasanta Town
Home to 50 marble workshops and it’s stone discovered by Michelangelo this town is a magnet for artists including Damien Hurst. Just a 10 minute drive this town that had been nicknamed, The Little Athens of Italy is a must for those with flare for art.
Where to eat and drink in Forte Dei Marmi
There are some real extremes in food here – from Michelin star restaurants to very average food. I’m not a massive foodie but this isn’t a place I will remember for the food but then I didn’t do the high end places this trip. Still it wasn’t cheap. There were some little quirks I loved, like the amount of snacks you get with a drink – it’s crazy! Like olives and crackers and cheese and crisps! One night we forgot dinner as we’d eaten so many!! Note the bread is chargeable, there isn’t service charge – it’s called cover charge and be careful ordering fish, that’s not a fixed price, it’s done by weight or you could get stung!
Bangno Ristorante Dalmazia
This is the beach club for Principe Hotel where you can have pizza dolce – sweet pizza for pudding! Chilled tunes and fantastic service.
Maito
A great place for dinner, often with live music to warm you up before hitting the bars or as its own destination.
Twigga
This is a famous day to night party vibe beach club bringing a bit of Ibiza to this area. Animal print everywhere and a giraffe entrance has made it a hugely popular spot. The pina coladas are worth a visit for!
La Capannina Di Franceschi
The oldest nightclub in the town known as the ‘dance restaurant’, open for late dinner, then open for dancing from midnight usually – this is where you put on your little black dress and dance where JFK once had a drink!
Almarosa bar
If you are looking for a bar not on the beach then this is your place – brimming with Italians spilling out into the street reminiscent of drinking in London on a sunny day!
67 Sky Lounge – Rooftop Restaurant & Bar
Saving the best for last – a rooftop bar obviously! On top of the Principle Hotel sits 67 Sky Lounge – click here for full details: Click here
Final thoughts on Forte dei Marmi
If you are looking for pure indulgence, rest and incredible beaches then this is a must visit. Based so close to many Italian towns, make this your base or make it one of your stops. Either way you won’t regret it – your bank balance might but the memories won’t.