Known for its yellow trams, sardines, custard pastries, cod (funny assortments of things there) but also for being a cheap cosmopolitan city close to the beach. Lisbon really has it all… including an impressive amount of rooftop bars, pools and restaurants! I was back for my 3rd visit in December 2024 so read on to discover how to spend a weekend in Lisbon in all seasons.
Discover lovely Lisbon
How to get to Lisbon
Firstly get your camera ready as there are some great Lisbon shots as you land! You can fly into Lisbon airport or make your way by car or train if exploring more of Portugal. Getting into Lisbon centre couldn’t be cheaper with Uber or Bolt is €10, if you can be bothered to go to the designated spot and wait. Or for triple that cost you can grab a taxi from the rank.
Where to stay in Lisbon
My first trip to Lisbon we stayed in an airbnb no longer avaiable so the next time I was looking for a hotel, with a rooftop bar or pool of course! The shortlist was quite extensive Tivoli Avenida Hotel, Memmo Alfama Hotel, EPIC SANA Lisboa Hotel, Memmo Principal Real, Jupiter Hotel and Lux Lisboa. Sharing should you need a shortlist too!
Lux Lisboa Hotel
Lux Lisboa Park Hotel won for being good value for money, ideal location and not just a pool but rooftop bar area. Next to Parque Eduardo VII in a quiet neighbourhood with a handy mini market moments away. It takes about 30-40 minutes to walk down to the river which was perfect amount of strolling time through the city. Of course you can take the metro or tram or even a super cheap Uber.
The room was spacious with modern controls, a huge bathroom and the usual amenities. Though it was baffling that they didn’t have conditioner & a kettle but did have scales should you want to know how many pasties du nata you have eaten! Breakfast was served in a fairly functional room with a average buffet selection (no bubbles!).
The service throughout my stay was outstanding and what made this hotel special. Of particular note Daniela & Nicolous who even helped verify some of my rooftop bar research and suggest some more!
Their rooftop officially opens in May for full bar service but it was still busy in March when I stayed. Tunes played, the pool is heated and an even more warmer jacuzzi tempts you. While there wasn’t bar service I could bring drinks up from the bar downstairs.
The rooftop is divided into two sections: on the left, you’ll find the rooftop pool and sunbeds, while on the right, cosy sofas and a bar. I can envision this becoming a popular spot for leisurely Saturday afternoons, especially during the summer months. However, due to its compact size, securing a sun lounger might require some competition. Despite not offering the most spectacular views of Lisbon, I loved it as my home base rooftop and was the icing on the cake for this hotel.
H10 Duque de loule Hotel
My third visit I opted for the H10 Duque de Loule – to fulfil my friend’s ‘must-feel-Portuguese’ request. The blue tiles and cute rooftop decor certainly didn’t disappoint. The boutique hotel, with its mix of modern charm and traditional Portuguese flair, was also situated near Parque Eduardo VII. We mostly used it as a base, skipping breakfast to keep costs down, but were still greeted with a glass of bubbles upon arrival – which always impresses me!
The rooms were ideal with an understated sense of style, excellently located plugs and comfy beds. Bath robes and good amenities made it a great winter base. Note the rooftop does close by 8pm but as the temperature also is dropping then it worked well for us.
What to eat and drink in Lisbon
Ginjinha liquor
Ginjinha, or simply ‘Ginja,’ should definitely come with a warning for how dangerously delicious it is! This cherry liqueur has been spreading joy since the 1800s, and now it’s served as a ritual in a chocolate cup. Drink half, then eat the cup and drink the rest in one go! You’ll be craving another within seconds. But don’t be fooled – it’s 20% alcohol, so careful! (It also makes a great gift for friends at home, thankfully they were sold in duty free and only a euro more than locally – which when you are travelling on hand luggage only is first world present problems solved!)
Sardines
Sardines, cod and pastries are a must, apparently. The former is due to the fishing history and become a staple in Portuguese diets. I prefer the novelty of sardines as souvenirs. But pastries I am here for them all. And then there is the worlds best chocolate cake! But surprisingly cod cakes might be the greatest invention yet!
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau
Gluten free cheesy fish cakes that pair perfectly with port or a hangover, Pastel de Bacalhau are worth coming to Portugal for. Plus if you order the glass of port with them, you get to keep the glass!
Pastesi De Nata (GF version)
The infamous ‘pasteis de nata’ are everywhere though a few places do seem to be more popular. I am GF so it was more about finding where I can eat them and determined I did. Zarzuela down near the river, is an unassuming looking café, where you will probably want to take them away to enjoy with a view. Note they are cash only but a handy ATM opposite.
The Worlds Best Chocolate Cake
The words best chocolate cake can be found at Landeau. It may not be presented in a beautfu=il box with fancy edible flowers for that insta worthy photo as this is all about taste and needs no distractions.
Where to eat in Lisbon?
Fidalgo Wine Bar Restaurant
Fidalgo is a small intimate, authentic restaurant, with terrific food, friendly service and an extensive wine collection. I spent a brilliant evening here for a friends 40th so brilliant, I forgot to take any photos.
Lidia Restaurant & Bar
Lidia Restaurant was floral arty restaurant with great food – perfect when we didn’t want to haul ourselves into the December crowds as just moments from the Parc Edwardo. Indoor was small and eclectic with seating spilling outside sheltered in winter with plastic wind protectors.
Java Rooftop & Tantura
Java rooftop bar and Tantura serve up incredible Israeli food. Both with a laid back vibe, great service and of course Java owning the river views.
Time Out Market Mercato
Time out market is a massively popular foodies mecca and there’s a Mercato (sister to the one in London). Whilst food was good it wasn’t really my vibe for a holiday being inside.
Riverside
At the bottom of the hills you will find the riverside where you can walk to the bridge with plenty of water side restaurants to relax with some rose at. Much like with rooftops, many are only open in season or on weekends.
Lisbon Bars and Rooftop Bars
Like most Southern European cities, the rooftop bar season is officially April/ May through to Sept/Oct. Though coming from London and finding it so much warmer (even in March, November and December) it should be a staple all year. But plenty were up and rooftop running. For full info on 15 I have reviewed click here but will highlight my favourite, Sky Bar at Tivoli Avenida Hotel, this is your sunset date destination. Walk out to wow views on this rooftop.
As with the rooftop bars there are a ton of speakeasy, quirky or just plain fun bars. Red frog ‘secret’ bar derives from the American prohibition era. Not at all secret but with the ring of a bell and a password to enter, it has gained huge notoriously as one of the best cocktail bars in Lisbon.
The good the bad and the ugly bar, where I drank cocktails out of tea cups on a patio down stairs but inside didn’t match that eccentric vibe the drinks were giving. Featuring a sports bar at the back and very little online about them this was a spontaneous stop but one worthy of noting on here to try.
Pink street is the magnet for bars and restaurants for a Saturday night with the added picture perfect umbrellas lining the sky and floor painted pink.
Lastly a local find, as my friend knew the owner, was an intimate bar called Vago. An older and vibrant crowd where the cocktails a must and dancing on tables encouraged.
What are Miradouros
If rooftop bars aren’t for you (then not entirely sure how you found this or me 🙂 but there are also a ton of ‘miradouros’ aka Lisbon view points. They are pinned in google maps as the best vantage points for the best views. You can’t drink alcohol here so if you need that glass of bubbly while the sun sets then stick to the rooftops bars!
Where to go Shopping in Lisbon
For the main shopping mall, head north to Centro Colombo but there’s an abundance of independent shops scattered about the city which are far more interesting. Jardim de Sao Pedro de Alacantara is a great option and a fabulous miradouros there too.
The market at LX Factory is definitely a must do destination. Quaint stores, brunch options galore and a flea market on a Sunday. If you are a book worm then Ler Devagar Bookstore is for you with it’s iconic flying bicycle.
What to do in Lisbon
Drive the The 25th April Bridge
Just near LX Factory is the iconic bridge of Lisbon. Based on the San Francisco bridge and originally named Salazar Bridge (Ponte Salazar), after Prime Minister Salazar, this connects Lisbon to the beaches below. Well worth a drive over. If not to just get to the beautiful beaches of this city but also to see the Statue of Christ.
Visit the Statue of Christ
Or called the ‘Sanctuary of Christ’ is a Catholic monument that watches over the city. Based on the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, this one was set up as gratitude for the city not being destroyed in the Second World War. You can visit or if you drive over the bridge, you will get a brilliant view.
How to get to the beach from Lisbon
Whilst this city is set on the river is also in close proximity to several beaches making it an ideal long weekend destination. To the west are the city beaches and cute towns which are an easy train ride. Or over the bridge are the holiday type beaches stretching the whole of the coast on the Costa da Caparica. There are tons of beach bars scattered down the coast and with stunning sunsets over the water. You will want to make this the longest lunch ever. If you have a car then it’s easy to pop down doesn’t take more than 30-40 mins, if not then you can Uber. Getting there won’t be an issue but getting back the drivers come from Lisbon usually so it’s a wait and can be pricey. BUT if it’s a glorious sunny day then it’s so worth every penny.
Take a day trip to Sintra
If you are staying for a long weekend then getting the train or a Get my Guide trip to this quaint town with its colourful wonderful palace is a must. You can read more here.
Get the train to Cascais
Just a 40 minute train ride or a 20 euro Uber is Cascais, the Portuguese Riveria. I actually chose to stay a few nights here as fell in love with how picture perfect it was. Very like Sitges is to Barcelona. Read more here.
Visiting Lisbon at Christmas
Escaping the grey skies and plummeting temperatures in London was one of the smartest idea’s I have yet had in December. Warm enough in the day to get burn on a rooftop bar and cold enough at night to enjoy the festive Christmas markets and their mulled wine (and many many ginja shots!)
The first thing to note is that I’ve never seen this city so packed! Like many capital cities at this time of year, tourists flock here to shop and join in on the festive cheer from other countries. It was especially busy for us, as it happened to be a bank holiday too – something I hadn’t clocked! So, by sundown, the streets were heaving, with everyone eager to see the lights come on each night. This also meant ubers took forever!
If you want to witness the grand moment when it first lights up, complete with a ceremony and show, you’ll need to be here in November. But from then every night at 5:30pm (2024), the famous Christmas tree in Praça do Comércio lights up, and the crowds swoop in so get your photos in before the tree lights up as after people will be posing especially against the Lisboa sign! . But if crowds aren’t your thing, take the high road – climb the Arco da Rua Augusta for an amazing aerial shot (sadly, no rooftop bar offers this view)
As you’d expect and hope for a Christmas break, there are plenty of Christmas markets scattered around the city. Rossio Square is charming, and Wonderland was my favourite. Wooden huts serve up Ginja shots, mulled wine, and festive gifts, all accompanied by Christmas tunes. Wonderland is like the baby cousin of London’s sprawling Winter Wonderland – more about the stalls than the rides, but just as magical.
Final thoughts on Lisbon for a weekend
Lisbon holds special memories for me as it where one of my wonderful friends pushed me to share my rooftop knowledge and set this site up so I am bias! But with everything in walking distance or really cheap transport, sunshine filled the streets and pastries expanding our waistlines. Its a wonderful city to spend a weekend Its great for groups, couples or solo travellers. One thing to note. The streets here are not paved with gold but tiles that turn ice like when wet. Mix that with the huge hills, and I mean HUGE, even sober, even with trainers, I tumbled twice! So leave those heels at home!