Cascais, the jewel of the Portuguese crown, has long been a favoured retreat for Portuguese royalty, and it’s easy to see why. Being a rooftop queen it even is home to one of my new favourite spots! Cascais a quaint, picturesque town is often referred to as the ‘Portuguese Riviera’. Stunning sea views, cobblestone streets, or soaking up the local culture, Cascais is a true must visit gem on the Portuguese coast.
Cascais: what you need to know
How to get to Cascais from Lisbon and Sintra
Presuming you are coming from Lisbon city there are many ways to get to Cascais. Hire a car and drive just 30 minutes, get the train – which there are various routes depending on the day ranging from 40 – 60 minutes. Or get an Uber for approx. 25 Euros. This was our way back to the airport as the train back meant changing and it was very early! Turned out to be smart as there was a train strike – that also doubled the cost and availability was limited! (I did not panic I might miss my flight, nope not one bit!!)
If you’re short on time but want to include both Sintra and Cascais in your itinerary, there’s an easy option. You can take the train to Sintra, then catch a bus to the famous Pena Palace (which is absolutely worth the visit – read more here), and finally, take an Uber down to Cascais. This would have been a simple enough plan, but I had heard that taking an Uber to Cascais could be quite expensive plus we had luggage, since we were moving to stay in Cascais. For convenience, we decided to book a day trip from Lisbon through Get Your Guide. While it was incredibly helpful in terms of luggage storage on the bus but I’m not entirely sure it was worth it. Especially as when I was in Sintra, I tested Uber, and it would have only cost around 20 euros to get to Cascais but it did mean no thinking and stress free which as I was sick was a relief.
Is a Day trip from Lisbon to Cascais worth it?
If you have found this article to help make this decision, then in a nutshell yes – a day trip from Lisbon to Cascais is absolutely worth it. I have been to Lisbon a few times and always meant to make it out to this gorgeous town. The wait was definitely worth it and ironically winter was a brilliant time to come. The blue skies, sunshine combined with the magic of their Christmas decorations and markets added to its charm. Plus it was quiet. I’d heard that in summer, Lisbon’s crowds and tourists flood this town, so I felt lucky to explore this hidden gem off-season. Lisbon’s got plenty to offer, but if you can spare even half a day to visit, you won’t regret i
Should I stay in Cascais or visit just for the day?
During my research, I knew I’d fall for Cascais, much like I did for Sitges near Barcelona but for very different reasons! Cascais presents itself as a quaint, charming seaside town with an irresistible allure. Of course, I also discovered that it’s one of the most expensive places to live in Portugal! Once again, my prosecco budget and champagne taste clash again!
That said, visiting Portugal in December was incredibly affordable, making it the perfect time to enjoy some much-needed ‘vitamin sea.’ There isn’t a huge amount to run around to see here so you can easily do it in a day or even half a da. But if you want to experience it’s charm and soak up the spirit of the place then I would build in time to stay in Cascais – even for one night!
Where to stay in Cascais
When I was looking for accommodation I was expecting more of a small Greek or Italian island vibe in Cascais, with charming bed-and-breakfast accommodations. But, of course, in a town with royal history, there are some fantastic hotels. We ended up staying at Hotel Baía, which, after much deliberation, ticked all the boxes: great location, affordable rates, and perhaps most importantly – a rooftop bar! (Though I knew the actual bar was closed out of season but access was not!)
I was a bit nervous, especially with some mixed reviews but I was chuffed to trust my gut as, it didn’t feel tired as I feared. The only snag was pluming issues and random lack of hot water but I am sure that would be temporary.
We had was a superior twin room and we were upgraded to a sea view which was a nice surprise. The room was pretty basic but the view was spectacular – straight on to the bay buzzing with weekend festive fun. I would fully recommend stretching to this unless you need rest in the day as it is not sound proofed! It also proved a treat for me as I got sick and so was in the room more than I expected but could still enjoy the setting. My only grumble was the beds were not as comfy as I hoped for – especially for the amount I slept in mine! But if you like firm mattresses then check right in!
The hotel is smack bang central on the bay so is a really easy as a spring board to wander about on foot, again a great choice for poorly me! The breakfast was adequate with gluten free options available. However, the bar food and room service were a bit overpriced and limited in selection. Thankfully, there are so many fantastic restaurants nearby, so I would highly recommend venturing out to enjoy the local dining scene instead.
Notably our second choice was the famous Farol Hotel, a boutique hotel about 15 minute walk from the centre. Unlike the Baia this hotel has it’s own personality with fabulous art and artefacts scattered throughout. I didn’t book it as I was a bit nervous again after reading some mixed reviews about the rooms, and it was more expensive, but in hindsight, I probably didn’t need to worry. We stopped by for a drink, and the service was impeccable. With stunning sea views for miles, it felt more like a retreat than just base!
Lastly, not one on the list when we were booking but discovered there. Just left of Baia Hotel was the Villa Cascais Boutique Hotel so the same great central location and like the Farol, it also had that swanky boutique vibe – if that’s what you are looking for.
It’s worth noting that my hotel choice would have been different in the summer, as I’d prioritize features like a rooftop pool for relaxing with rose! So, for me, these hotels are particularly well-suited for winter stays, offering a cosy and more intimate atmosphere that’s perfect for the cooler months.
Where to eat and drink in Cascais
As I was in Cascais in winter these bars and restaurants are very much geared to the weather being cooler though regardless, I would recommend them all year round. If I had visited in the summer then there would have been more sea view restaurants and marina sunset dinners!
House of Wonders Restaurant and Rooftop
This might have been my favourite find / highly researched and pined for years on my maps! Happily, it exceeded my expectations with its curated relics and eccentric treasures. I am not a fan of vegan food but for this place I made an exception. The menu is the food – laid out with the meals so you choose with your eyes! As a dyslexic visual person this was genius! I definitely over ordered because of it!
Wine is available and as it was winter – warm mulled wine was a must. The food was hearty and healthy – made a change from tapas and cured meats! But it was the rooftop and adjacent terrace I loved. Blankets available and accompanied by sunshine meant we were able to alfresco lunch! Highly recommend even for a coffee. Read my rooftop review here.
Amazing Thai Resturant
We stumbled across this ‘amazing’ Thai restaurant, in search of an alternative to all the tapas we had consumed in Lisbon and were warmly welcomed. I am no foodie but I do know when Thai food is fresh or full of sodium and feels a bit sickly. And this was really clean and tasty plus the pineapple dish really was ‘amazing’ for the art! The only downside is the decor as I nearly discarded this option as it felt a bit tatty, albeit fun, for the quality of food they were offering.
Corleone Restaurant
The Corleone restaurant is a well respected Cascais restaurant with rave reviews but it was their terrace that we were sold by. We had planned to come for dinner but found the menu a bit too restrictive, so we stayed for a drink to enjoy the view and heaters! If you are a foodie – this place is probably for you!
Blue Bar Rooftop
This is the rooftop bar on top of the Hotel Baia, which by winter isn’t serviced but is open to take a drink up and enjoy the view. I imagine in summer its a pretty popular! Open for non guests too, read more on it here.
Bubbles and Bites
Yes, I confess, I went here purely due to the name and to take this photo, as I am that person! But I own it! What I found was a really cute restaurant that if we had longer would have definitely come back to for dinner. Can’t comment on the food but pop by for some bubbles and bites if you also need this photo in your life!
Bar Estoril
This famous bar is slightly out of Cascais and is so worth it if you are a James Bond or World War 2 fanatic like me! Yes I’m not all travel and rooftops, I have a fascination with the spies of World War 11 and once upon a time worked on a Bond movie! Bar Estoril set inside the lavish Palacio Estoril Hotel was host and home to British and German spies plotting espionage during the war. It was also the place that inspired Ian Fleming when writing Casino Royale. Which were honoured by cocktails, I’d recommend the ‘Bond Girl’ over the ‘Undercover’ if you had to choose!
Bar on the Rocks
Bar on the Rocks is set at the stunning Hotel Farol east of Cascais that I mentioned earlier as an option to stay at. It is also home to two stunning restaurants one specialising in sushi with sea views. We just stopped in for a drink while wandering the area but I’d be back if I was here in the summer.
What to do in Cascais
As I was poorly for some of this trip there were things I didn’t get to do such as visit Boca do Inferno or Cascais Cultural Centre. However I did make it to a few of the towns sights. The Santa Marta lighthouse which is a picture perfect scene build in 1868 on a 17th century fort. Both of which are a little museum for those that want to learn more.
The little mermaid certainly gives Copenhagen a run for its money (even though she actually has legs – though so did the Little Mermaid, I guess they are on land!) Build 500 years ago to celebrate Portuguese discoveries or explorations. There would normally be a stupid snap of me imitating the statue but I was that sick 🙁
As it was December I was treated to their small but perfectly formed market stalls with all the Ginjia shots – an absolute must if you haven’t yet experienced, or if you have – craveable chocolate cups with cherry liqueur! Merry Christmas to me!
In the summer the staple activity will be to enjoy the beaches along with coastal walks and marina martinis! Lazy long lunches, swimming the sea and soaking in the suns glorious rays… I will just have to come back to experience that!
Final thoughts on visiting Cascais
What a treat Cascais was! Compact and charming, it’s perfect for a day trip or a leisurely getaway, whether you’re looking to relax for a few days or include it in a tour of Portugal Just don’t fall in love too much as remember it’s one of the most expensive areas of Portugal to live!
