Santorini, also known as Thira, stands as the quintessential ‘sunset island’ in the Aegean Sea. Its promise of stunning sunsets, iconic white buildings, and beautiful blue domes draws in tourist crowds of around 2 million people from all over the world – all year round. This fame works in it’s favour but now also against.
I was one it had worked against. I had seen the images of packed walk ways, cruise ship day trippers and overcrowded sunset spots. As it had been splashed and saturated all over social media I felt I had already been. If it hadn’t been that my friend coming from Australia (who isn’t on social media) who had it on her bucket list, I would have skipped this stunning island. And that would have been a huge mistake.
I am privileged to have seen some sensational sunsets round the world but this island sunset identity is definitely worth the hype – even for just one night. I mean an island that boasts more wine than water and more churches than houses, needs to be visited!
How long should I go to Santorini for?
How long to go to Santorini will depend on your reason for going and budget. If you are headed on a romantic break, a honeymoon even, then immerse yourself in the magic for at least 4-5 nights. Splash out on a stunning cave hotel view in Oia and plan days lazing in your infinity pool with breath-taking dinners just a short walk away.
If you have always dreamt of seeing the Santorini sunset, like my friend, or are travelling through to more islands, as I then planned, I’d recommend just 2 nights. The sunset is renowned for a reason; the entire experience is utterly breathtaking and bonkers. For both reasons it’s an absolute must-see, at least once. However it is expensive one when, just a ferry ride away, are other lesser visited islands that offer the same waters, more affordable food and amazing sunsets without the crazy crowds.
What time of year is best to visit Santorini?
I should started with ‘when is the worse time to visit Santorini!’ That would be July and August. I heard from many shop and restaurants owners that it is everything you have ever seen on Instagram versus reality parody. The streets are heaving, you walk at a snails pace to get anywhere and it is steaming hot. The shoulder season is better. I went the first weekend in June though happened to have a heatwave so the hike I planned was shortened and more rooftop pit stops needed! 😉
In the day the streets of Oia were not what I feared – quite empty really. But then I realised it was not a cruise ship docking day! Also due to the heat I assume everyone else was cooling off in their infinity pools as around 6pm the streets filled to an uncomfortable amount. Happily we had dinner booked at 7 so could escape the madness.
The weather will always be the biggest gamble anywhere you go but it matters particularly here. Most are hoping for those iconic blue skies against the white and blue churches and buildings. I heard a story of one woman from the USA who came for 10 days in May, specifically for the golden hour magic. The island had freak winds and clouds every day. I felt so sad for her and so lucky we had the bright blue skies as you get one shot or have to come back.
If I had planned to just visit Santorini then I would have gone for April/ May (then again after that woman’s experience). However I was using Santorini for it’s international airport as a gateway to other islands whose seasons don’t start till June.
Where to stay in Santorini – Fira or Oia?
Your choice of accommodation in Santorini hinges greatly on your budget and purpose of visit. Oia’s hotels are exorbitantly priced and some lack privacy being squirrelled into the landscape. However if this your romantic dream or bucket list trip then save up and ensure you build in lazy time at the hotel to justify it. Caves of Oia Hotel would have been a dream and there are plenty like that. Or just outside somewhere like Cavo where you can see over to Oia.
But for a third of the price I would highly recommend Fira or Imerovigli which are also closer to the port and the airport. Plus if you are planning to do the legendary coastal walk, then to walk from Fira to Oia is not only easier but has better views.
I stayed at the Kalisti Hotel which was really reasonably priced for Fira. It was a white washed building but could have been anywhere in Greece. I didn’t pick it for a Santorini experience more for budget and location. It is a new hotel and the staff have been trained to be super thorough. Usually I would welcome a hotel tour and ALL the information on the area on check in but I was on a tight sunset schedule and was already fully researched.
The standard rooms were small but as we would barely be there, it was fine. They had tried to design a cave like shower experience that mainly soaked the toilet! Breakfast was adequate but what I really liked about this hotel was its proximity to Fira town. Away from the crowds of Fira (yes they are there too) but close enough that it took just minutes to walk in and not get lost later!
How to get round Santorini?
Oia lies in the northwest while Fira and the ferry port are located towards the west-central region of the island. Moving further south along the east coast, you’ll find the airport, with black beaches dotting the coastline even further south and plenty of vineyards from Fira south. So what is the best way to get round Santorini? Within the towns you will be on foot, so pack those flats! Or as I mentioned you can actually walk from Fira to Oia on a costal walk. More on that below.
If you are coming in from the air, with luggage, then I would highly recommend booking an airport transfer. I used airport transfers and prepaid at £20 for the short journey. This was the cheapest of many quotes I had. When you land, I had read luggage takes an age to come out and only one person to do passport checks but we whizzed through and the car was tracking us ready transport us to our adventure. From touch down to hotel it took 40 minutes. However on a budget the bus routes are good, less so with the size of my luggage!
If you are coming in from the ferry, especially if you are on a day trip with limited time book a transfer. Presumably you are headed straight for Oia – along with many on that ferry or cruise ship arrivals! There are not lots of taxi’s waiting!
A hire car is a must on some Greek islands, but I decided against it for this one. We weren’t there long enough, had heard the roads weren’t fun and knew that finding parking in Oia could be a hassle – not what we wanted for our holiday. If you do hire a car, remember you may need an international driving license in Greece. The taxi system is expensive, and while it’s not as bad as Mykonos, taxis are in short supply. However, if you prebook, budget, and plan, you will be fine. We actually used some taxi touts from Oia to Fira when we stayed later than planned, and they charged no more than the pre-booked quotes. (35 Euros)
The bus system was good between the main towns but you will be waiting in a line a lot of the time and may not even get on the next bus. But if slow and steady is your pace then it would be ideal budget saving, just note the times seem to change weekly.
Do not ride the donkeys. Whilst it may be historically how people moved around this island, there are now other options that are kinder to these animals. Many are left in the heat with little to no water, beaten by sticks with little rest. If you feel distressed by this then the UK charity The Donkey Sanatory have some advise to follow here. We only saw them once at the end of the day with no one on them which was a relief.
What are Caldera views?
I saw many references to the caldera views of Santorini and which side was best to see them and they seemed important. I’ll be honest geography was not my strong point. But essentially it meant what makes Santorini and it’s sunsets so important due to a volcanic a zillion years ago that produced the cliffside architecture and the volcanic islands sat in the sea opposite the west coast.
Where is the best place to see the sunset in Santorini?
The million dollar question when coming to this island – where is the best vantage point for that Santorini sunset. First up is which town? One hundred percent it is Oia. What makes this sunset so special is the picture-perfect white washed buildings with splashes of colour, the windmill or domes bathed in the warm glow as the sun dips below the horizon into the ocean.
The dilemma is choosing the perfect point within Oia for your requirements – especially if you have just one shot at this famous sunset. Do you want to do so with a drink, dinner or just be at the best spot for the photos?
If it’s the latter then Oia Castle is hugely popular for capturing the windmill and ocean with the ability to swivel back to the rest of Oia. We popped up at 17.30 and some people were already decamping for the sunset shot. So get there early and take snacks and water, it was still hot at dusk.
If you want the blue domes in shot then google maps helpfully has marked the view points out or one of the rooftop bars that has them in eye line.
Many people will recommend different spots or certain streets – that will all be packed. If you are on a tight budget then this is a good option but you won’t be getting a solo shot easily just get there early. I was sat at the restaurant by this crowd who started gathering about an hour before sunset – this was early June, not the height of summer.
If you prefer a calmer experience whilst being fed and fuelled on wine, then it has to be a rooftop restaurant. There are so many to choose from, even I was overwhelmed. I spent far too much time on trip advisor and google maps! I knew I could only choose one in Oia as we only had one night here so the pressure was on. Read more on where I chose here and summarised below.
Best places to eat and drink in Santorini for sunset view
If you do opt for the civilised over priced drinks or dinner option for this phenomenon then you will have your choice of the most romantic rooftop restaurants at every turn. I really should have come earlier as this place was made for my rooftop obsession! Whether you’re staying in Oia or Fira, you can simply roll out of bed to the most breathtaking views imaginable. However, be prepared to shell out a hefty sum, and quality of sunset does not always equal that of the food.
Wherever you choose, I would advise booking in advance, as some places do not accept walk-ins. Even if they do, you are unlikely to secure the best table with a view. Bear in mind everyone is special and everyone values the view – whether they are celebrating hen dos, weddings, honeymoons, proposals, or big birthdays, so requesting a good table isn’t unique. Some places operate on a tiered system where booking includes agreeing to a higher minimum spend, while others offer separate areas that can be hired for private dining if you want to guarantee a magical experience.
Also finding a great view won’t equal great food or drinks hence why I read every single review on trip advisor and found Kastro. I was able to pre book the table by the edge, no deposit needed and a more reasonable 45 euro min spend each. Read more here.
However whilst Oia is the priority, if you have two nights, I wouldn’t overlook the charm of the island’s capital, Fira. Situated on the same side of the island, Fira offers a stunning sunset experience, complete with numerous vantage points. Personally, I again chose to dine during this magical hour, a savvy decision given that many opt for sunset drinks followed by a late dinner.
I realised that the Cruise ships collect passengers from the port directly below Fira so places were capitalising on those who didn’t want to risk missing the ship by having sunset in Oia. As such was busy.
I again researched to find a restaurant that would mimic Oia – just in case the weather let us down the second night and lucked out with an incredible dining and sunset experience. Read more here.
What food to eat in Santorini
If you like to taste authentic food from its origin then you are in for a treat with two dishes born and bred on this island. Chloro Cheese. The traditional local cheese of Santorini is called “Chlorotiri”, produced from goat’s or sheep’. The Santorini Salad obviously which should replace the feta cheese of the Greek salad with the Chloro cheese. And of course then there is all the local wine which it would be rude not to try on a rooftop especially when their Assyrtiko grape is an antioxidant!
What else is there to do in Santorini?
Walk the coastal walk from Fira to Oia (or vice versa)
Santorini often evokes images of leisurely days and magical sunset evenings, however, for those who enjoy hiking and breathtaking vistas, the coastal walk between Fira and Oia is an absolute must.
Having completed the Bondi to Coogee trek multiple times during my time in Sydney, I actually underestimated the duration during a recent visit back as listened to google maps – which is very literal! So I knew not to trust it with this one when it said it would be 2hours 22 minutes. Unless you are a marcher, wont be stopping for photos or rest then allow at least 3 hours. Google maps also doesn’t take into account this isn’t a flat road, some parts are just cobbles, the paths uneven, so many stairs, and slippery slopes – this is a job for trainers, you can thank me later!
If you are attempting this in any type of heat then go early, you will also miss more crowds this way. I chose to start at Fira as we were staying there and you could see the stunning town of Oia as you approached it. It may also have been as I heard it was more downhill than the other way round! Confusingly google does have the walk pinned to start in Imerovigli – the village just along from Fira. I started at Fira main square and followed my little blue dot on my phone and made my way to that point and then followed the signs. It was a bit baffling at some points where to go but you are not alone! There are plenty of people doing it too. The one note I would have is when you are approaching the official start point, if you want to photograph the Church of the Resurrection of the Lord then ensure you stay up on the road as it is easy to find yourself lost below.
As I like to do things the rooftop way, I planned a little cocktail pit stop at Cavo in Imerovigli which according to google maps should have taken an hour but it took us two with all the stopping and ambling! In the heatwave this happened to be one of most brilliant ideas.
Full confession. This is where my walk then ended. You can now carry on for another 90 minutes to Oia but I had researched and most of the amazing views were done and so were we in 35 degrees! So asked them to call us a cab for the rest of the way! Best decision. Best of both worlds!
Explore Oia in the day
A day spent exploring Oia and posing in front of the iconic building is an essential part of any Santorini itinerary. This is the town that put Santorini on the map so enjoy pottering around the shops and take in those views. While it can be bustling and crowded, I found it was much quieter in the day. (I was there first weekend in June). And like the walk, leave your heels and flimsy flip flops behind, as navigating its charming streets involves numerous steep stairs, slippery floors and more cobbles galore.
However I was really surpised how small Oia was. This was one thing I missed in all my research so after lunch, 5 hours was way too much time to kill. Then again not when you can rooftop hop around so many bars! Click here for some of them.
Get the beautiful blue dome pictures
The blue dome photo. A reason alone so many people flock to this famous island. Interesting my friend was a bit disappointed there weren’t more. She felt there was a perception the town was littered with them as they are so photographed. As I was the planner for the trip I knew and planned rooftop bars round them. Click here for those.
Expect queues and even signs about how to behave! Thankfully we didn’t have a cruise ship in that day so it was only a few people wait.
Have a photo shoot or watch the influencers at work
Around many corners, especially on the walk from Fira to Oia you will find what is termed ‘flying dress photo shoots’. Originated with influencers anyone wanting to splash out can book one – no wallflowers here!
Have lunch at Ammoudi Bay
Ammoudi Bay came up frequently in my research, and if I had been staying longer, it would have been high on my list to sit and sip some rosé by the waters lapping below. However, we were planning to visit many Greek islands after Santorini for quieter, less pricey surroundings, and I didn’t feel that Ammoudi Bay offered the same unique experience as exploring Oia. Not to mention, there are approximately 300 steps, and after the walk (in a heatwave!) from Fira, I found myself doing more sitting than stepping! If you’re up for it, though, head to Kastro and you can pick up the steps there.
Wine tasting
As I mentioned earlier an island that apparently has more wine than water surely wine tasting is a must if you are here for more than a few days. Famed for white wine Santorini Islands originated the Assyrtiko grapes which like red wine can have anti oxidant properties so why wouldn’t you want to try them! The vineyard I was obsessed with was Santo Wines – due to the view! But we didn’t have time this trip.
Open air cinema
Running from May to October on the east side of the island is a cinematic gem – definitely one of the romantics staying longer on the island. I didn’t go so can’t comment but details here if you fancy snuggling up under the stars in Santorini!
Boat trip
Sailing round Santorini in a boat at sunset, again romantics out there this is a must. Details here.
Santorini Beaches
While Santorini may not be renowned for its beach scene, it offers ample opportunities for relaxation and sunbathing, particularly at beach clubs like Nikki Beach on the eastern side of the island. What sets Santorini apart is its unique coloured beaches. The clay tones at Columbo Beach or the appropriately named Red Beach with its distinctive red sand. ‘Perissa Beach’ or ‘Black Beach’ are both covered in black sand. Though don’t be misled by the name “White Beach’ thinking white sands, no it’s actually composed of white rocks. For a romantic escape, head to Eros Beach, named after the god of love. However, as this island is windy it also means the sea can be rough, so only strong swimmers should leave the shore edges. And is padding in pristine beaches are your priority, there are plenty of nearby islands where you can find better, safer options.
Final thoughts on Santorini
Santorini is without doubt a stunning destination and if you have an abundance of time and money. For a once in a lifetime time romantic break then you don’t need to go anywhere else. If you want to experience authentic Greek life, more relaxed stunning sunsets and waterside dining then I would stay a night or two. Then jump on that ferry and head to one of the other Greek islands, or many in fact!
From Santorini you have have the pick of the Cyclades islands by ferry such as Paros and Naxos. Or you can fly to some like Crete or Rhodes. Where some are half the cost and all the aesthetic Greek vibes. To help you choose read more here.
However as a Santorini sceptic I was pleasantly surprised. Am I glad I went, one hundred percent yes. Am I planning to go back, no! If I was offered the chance – of course, for me the world is so big and even within the Greek islands – there are so many to do! Click here to find your next island.