Everything you need to know about visiting the Albanian Riviera

If you have been hypnotised by the turquoise crystal clear waters splashed all over Tik Tok or the media hype that the Albanian Rivera is the ‘Maldives of Europe’, then you may be considering this corner of the world for your next getaway.

I had been planning to go for about 4 years – due to the promise of being boujee but budget friendly. I knew this area would soon explode on social media and drive up the prices and lessen the experience. While it hasn’t reached anywhere near the level of saturation or crazy prices seen in Mykonos or Santorini, it’s on its way. And who can blame them for cashing in on its popularity. But was it worth the hype?

I read conflicting information before visiting the Albanian Riviera; some said it was super cheap and picture-perfect, while others felt deceived by viral videos showing construction sites. I found both to be true. How much you enjoy your holiday depends on what you know before you go. So read on to discover this dazzling destination with managed expectations.

How to get to Saranda and Ksamil

The first challenge I encountered when planning this trip was how to get to South Albania. The main airport is far away from the famous waters – a 3/4 hour drive at the capital Tirana. Which if I had longer then would have definitely hired a car to explore some of the gorgeous towns on route but there wasn’t enough time on this trip.

2025 Update: A new airport opened May 2025 in Vlora – slightly more accessible 2 hour drive down to Saranda. And another is due in Gjirokastër in the future which is even closer. But until then… the alternative was to fly into Corfu and get the ferry across to Saranda in just 30 minutes which is what I did.

Not trusting flight or ferry schedules we stayed in Corfu either side of the trip which as our flight was delayed, I felt smug! I did not feel so smug when we got to the ferry though. I booked through FerryHopper as I had great experience the month before island hopping in Greece. No paperwork needed but my app did decide to die so ensure you have emails/ screenshots.

We took a taxi to the port – this ensured we also went to the correct place! It was a big building but inside felt very cloak and dagger. There was a door at the end on the right where we were ushered in to a small room with some X-ray machine and a passport control man in a booth. We had got there 40 minutes before our ferry and that was plenty of time. We stood around until everyone started to tip outside into the blazing heat. No one explaining anything. So we followed the flock to the ferry. We were then called back, along with about 1/3 everyone else and made to stand for what felt like hours with no information. Eventually we were sent over to our very small ferry that looked like a submarine. Bags grabbed from us and piled up – so make sure you have something distinguishable on your case. The seating was actually nice – unlike the return! Proper seats like an old school business class.

The return we had a different slightly longer ferry and it was not comfortable. But it was only an hour – so bearable. Eventually we arrived in Saranda and another passport check and through to a waiting taxi rank! The return was a much better experience both sides but ensure you have snacks, water and sunscreen on.

How to get around South Albania

The public transport is ok but not brilliant, so I’d recommend hiring a car if you want to venture off and explore. If not, taxis are really reliable. I downloaded the ‘speed taxi app’ (yes it has a kangaroo icon!) and VrapOn Taxi app’ which from reviews seemed the most fair and honest but I actually didn’t need them. There were always plenty of taxi ranks or the venues would call one for us. However ensure you check the price before getting in – the venue can also advise what it should cost. The most popular route is Saranda to Ksamil and that should be no more than 25-30 Euros – even at 4am! Many taxi’s wont look like taxi’s but people’s cars – much like uber.

There was one day we wanted to do a trip to multiple places. Usually a Get my Guide tour would fulfil this but not everywhere we wanted in one day. . After MUCH research I came across Daniel tours who I emailed in advance and they quoted 150 Euros to be picked up at 9am and back at 5pm with 5 destinations! He asked to switch to Whatsapp – which turned out to be a popular way to book things. They were fantastic – reliable, knowledgeable and gave us great tips on way. They also have pre planned tours if you aren’t a planner like me!

Where to stay: Saranda or Ksamil

Ksamil (pronounced without the K) has been getting all the attention on socials. It is full of beach clubs, water sports and gave me a Miami meets Magaluf vibes. For that reason I chose Saranda main town (also spelt Sarandë).

Practically a better option for what we wanted: a mix between lazy beach club days, good rooftop bars and a spring board to exploring some of the local areas. For us this was the right choice. If you are looking for holiday where you roll out of bed to a sun lounger to dinner and bars then Ksamil is probably better for you.

Which Hotel in Sarande to stay in?

Choosing a hotel in Saranda was one of the hardest part of the trip – just like in Corfu town on the way here! They were either 3 star or sold out! The famed 5 star hotels for peanuts didn’t exist – they are really catching up with the popularity this area! As such more and more hotels will be opening but they are also being snapped up fast.

If 3 star and hostels are your jam them you are in luck. You will get a bargain. However there are not mine. I am always looking for luxury but without busting the budget. So I work really hard to find accomodation that has a deal or I luck out with timing and monitoring. (Yes there is a whole spreadsheet involved as prices fluctuate!) Eventually after a lot of researching I had a short listam sharing should it help you:

The Yacht Hotel looked gorgeous and high on my list but we really wanted a pool. If I was passing through then this would have been a great option. Likewise Asi Rooftop Hotel – and no, not just because it was called Rooftop, of course that was an added bonus! But again it was much more of a base hotel.

On the flip side if I was staying longer then Nili Delux Hotel / Siro Kerma Private Beach also was hugely on my watch list. It was a bit out of the town and didn’t offer twin beds but it would be ideal for a flop and drop holiday if you don’t mind getting taxi’s into the town.

So for longer than a weekend but not a 2 week break, Saranda Palace Hotel seemed a real possibility. Not uber lux but modern and big with good options to chill whether by the beach or pool or bar but it didn’t feel special enough.

The places I really wanted to stay was at Bougainville or Lost Beach Hotel. However upon investigation the former had too many ‘interesting’ reviews to risk it. But as it had a rooftop bar I knew I would have the chance to enjoy that view anyway for a drink.

Lost Seaside Hotel is also home to one of the viral beach clubs by the same name and with just 13 rooms it was sold out. However the spreadsheet worked and there was a window, well room, available one random day and I grabbed it. (Though just to add to confusion Lost Seaside Hotel and Lost Beach Hotel are the same! The beach club is called Lost Seaside).

I booked with booking.com and so could message requests through that platform as I found their communication very hit and miss. This was the same for everywhere! I would get replies to say ‘don’t worry dear, we look forward to welcoming you’ in answer to all my questions! They were right though I didn’t need to worry – everything we requested was fulfilled and I learnt this was the Albanian way.

The hotel is set over the pool, with breakfast served at their stunning beach restaurant though being a small hotel so was the breakfast offering but totally adequate.

The rooms are stunning, beds ridiculously comfy and a modern spotless stunning bathroom. The one point to note that the beach club is alive at night. So expect tunes until gone midnight, which didn’t bother us as usually weren’t back anyway but if you have a Cinderella syndrome then this wouldn’t be right for you.

I had read some reviews about poor customer service and miss information. This was true. I had prepared a cash deposit as stated but this wasn’t now needed. I had been told it was non refundable and would pay half in advance – this didn’t happen. The air con system needs adjusting (note, it does work) but now can’t be done until the end of the season. I soon learnt this is Albania, they are catching up with tourism and the speed to respond to problems isn’t maybe what we are all used to.

That said, I chose this hotel for my birthday trip and they did not disappoint – we had a brilliant time – complementary bubbles, helpful advice and in a stunning location. What more could a birthday girl ask for!

What currency is used in Albania and can I use my card?

Albania has its own currency, LEK, that is only available in Albania, helpful I know. So take your cards. Yes plural! Not just in case of thieves but I have had one ATM swallow mine on a trip. You don’t need that hassle on holiday. The biggest problem is getting hold of it as it is a closed currency, it can only be accessed once in the country, from any ATM.

I had been most worried about getting a taxi from the ferry but when we arrived the taxi driver said he accepted euros and we never ended up needing any! I either paid in Euros or on my card/ Apple Pay, even when the bill comes in LEK. It’s so simple to work out as you just remove 2 zeros or use the exchange app.

Two quirky points: if the bill is in LEK and your pay euros your change will be in LEK – which you will need to use before leaving. The second baffled me, so many restaurants wouldn’t let you split the bill if paying by card.

Tipping in Albania

I had read that tipping is a sign of appreciation in Albania. Like NYC the wages are low but the expectation there is in New York did not translate here. I heard that many bars have their own way to get tips – they don’t give you your change – I didn’t find this at all! I tipped when I felt it was right to and got my change!

Data in Albania

As Albania is not in the EU (though is in Europe to confuse some) you will need to check with your provider to avoid being stung for data. I use UK 02 provider and it wasn’t included in my usual travel data but I could buy a bolt on for £6 a day. If you don’t have that option then you can opt for an Esim.

Beach clubs in Saranda

Lost Seaside Beach Club

The first thing that impressed me was how much bigger Lost Seaside Beach Club was than I expected. Set beneath the restaurant and pool, it features multiple layers of beds, the Instagram-famous overhanging beds, and a bar, making it a perfect day-to-night venue.

As it was part of our hotel, I wrongly assumed it would be included in the price. Sadly, it wasn’t. What is included are the standard sunbeds (without mattresses) and umbrellas. Guests receive a small discount and have first refusal on the cabanas and beds until 10am.

The pool is also part of the beach club, even though it feels more like a part of the hotel due to its smaller size. The same rules apply, but there are only a few ‘free’ sunbeds available, so you’ll need to be an early riser or be willing to pay the discounted rate of 40 Euros a day for a cabana bed. While this might seem unfair, the holiday vibes are unbeatable, and it remains one of the best beach clubs in South Albania. I’d definitely go back!

Copacabana Beach Bar

Just down from Lost Seaside we stumbled across Copacabana Beach Bar which looked stunning. I am including this even though we didn’t visit as it looked a vibe and it hadn’t been on my list. So you may like it!

Siro Kerma Private Beach club

Siro is a gorgeous gem of a beach club based at the equally stunning hotel, Nili. The restaurant gives more island vibes, colourful and relaxed with some of the best cocktails.

We came for lunch and spontaneously stayed all day! For free. The staff were all so kind and attentive. I met the designer/ manager/ amazing human doing it all – Lea, who was from Newcastle who is creating a true escape here. As such it was better service than most places!

Beach Clubs in Ksamil

The main area of Ksmail is umbrella to umbrella in beach clubs – it’s hard to see the ‘Maldives of Europe’ sand! So if you are looking for more remote beach that don’t head to the main area. Here you will find some of the boujeeist beach clubs boasting rooftop bars and sea views. It was my Mecca!

Poda Beach Club

The beach club closest to Sarande on the main beach club ‘strip’ in Ksamil is Poda. Famed for its insta swing and billowing entrance, this bar ranges from foam parties to sunset dinners. The latter was my chosen birthday dinner venue as it also has a rooftop!

Dinner here was a spontaneous decision, but with the welcoming staff and stunning sunset, it felt rude not to. The food was good, not amazing but the beautiful setting, combined with the friendly service and breathtaking views and there were even fireworks made the entire experience fit for a birthday princess!

Coco Beach Club

How to attract Instagram beach goers – put a hand sculpture in the sea! Known as ‘Hand von Ksamil’ and yes I had to do the pose! Placed at Coco Beach Club was a bit tricky to find as it is not clearly signposted from the main road. But if you see signs for Kamay Beach then that’s it! I can’t comment on the club but for those wanting this picture then expect a little queue and you don’t have to be using the club to go!

Principotes & Tulum Resto Lounge

Principotes was my favourite beach club. It was just dreamy with all the ethereal vibes and warm funny staff. We actually didn’t hire a sun bed, we came for lunch and stayed in the rooftop lounge all afternoon. I had also finally found gorgeous pale rose by the glass – though being my birthday I really should have just order the bottle or two!

Great music and vibe and even better cocktails. This rooftop beach club was giving relaxation in a decadent setting. If I had stayed in Ksamil then this would have been my regular!

What else if there to do in South Albania

It is not all beach clubs and cocktails in South Albania there is so much more to see and do in this incredibly beautiful country.

Visit the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter)

Inside the aptly named Blue Water National Park or Syri I Kalter meaning Blue Eye, for just a few Euros, you will find a freshwater spring shaped like an eye. The middle of the water is deep and dark in colour and it’s a mystery to how deep it goes. The surrounding area looks like the iris. As Albania was once inhabited by the Greek I wonder how much the ‘evil eye’ plays in here. The myth is that an eye from a snake eye is crying! But there are a lot of stories.

However the important thing to know is actually just how cold it is! Though you are not meant to swim in it. You will find conflicting information about this as people still do. Officially to protect nature it is a no. This happened Split too and they now enforce it. But it is freezing and no changing facilities so that was a hard no from me!

Getting there was quite the dilemma as we didn’t want to hire a car or but I also wanted to combine the trip with other stops. There were plenty of tours to do just the eye but not everything else. That is where Daniel Tours came in as mentioned earlier. Our driver was also a genius as when we arrived he suggested getting the red train up from the entrance – what a smart move in nearly 40 degrees heat! And if you make friends with the driver he may let you drive or at least pose in it when you realise you match!). We found an hour ample to wander round and of course we didn’t do the walk up so add in more time if you want to do that.

Visit the Old Town Gjirokaster and Castle of Gjirokastra,

Further on from the Blue eye, was this historic quaint quirky town. Dating back to 1336 an USECO World Heritage Site and it was adorable. Filled with souvenir shops and restaurants it was a real treat.

Set at the top of the old town you will find the castle and views spanning over the red topped houses. Wandering up to the fortress you will come across Albanian women selling their crochet and souvenirs – which makes for a good reason to stop and take a breath, as its quite a climb and the steps are slippery so leave your thongs at home!

Visit Kerculla Resort Hotel for lunch

Kerculla Resort Hotel is set just a short drive from the old town and offers magnificent views over the whole this area of Albania, including the Gjirokastra Castle. We came for lunch and were able to stay for a swim with these striking views.

Take a Boat Trip

Those magical waters aren’t just for enjoying from the shore. Take a boat trip to explore islands and secluded beaches on a day tour. You might even get lucky and spot some dolphins in the Islets of Ksamil. If a full day at sea isn’t your thing, there are sunset sailings or shorter, one-hour boating excursions available. I found very little information online before my trip, and what I did find didn’t respond, but there are plenty of options scattered along the promenade in Saranda

Wine and Raki Tasting

Just 15 minutes in a taxi from Saranda is the Wine Canteen “Isak” Kantina e Verës ISAK, an authentic Albania vineyard. For just 15 Euros per person we had a tour of the vineyard, the vegetable house, the grounds and then spoilt with a platter of food and wines to taste.

We were also challenged to taste Raki, the national drink of Albania. This potent spirit, made from the leftover grapes used in winemaking, is a quintessential part of Albanian culture and hospitality! Usually I rise to a challenge but this stuff is too strong and honestly disgusting for me. However our guide told us, her grandmother has a shot of Raki with her breakfast!! Albanians are hard core!

Visit Lëkurësi Castle

Built in 1537 to defend the town from Venetians it towers over the town. It used to house it’s own village. You can hike up or it is often included in tours if you aren’t driving. We asked our driver to take us as our last stop and I am glad we made the effort as the views were breathtaking over Saranda.

If we had an extra night then we would have come for sunset drinks. There was an area set with bean bags that gave Mykonos 180 vibes – without the price tag!

Butrint National Archaeological Park

South of Ksamil the Butrint National park is home to over 1200 animals and plants and a centre for archaeology training. Stunning setting with the option of a guide as it is vast. We didnt have time to explore this but you may!

Bars and Restaurants

Rooftop Bars

With 15 amazing rooftop bars, I was not disappointed! You can find all 15 here. But notably the Illyrian Boutique Hotel hosts Rooftop Saranda: Cocktail & Dreams motto: ‘you bring the party, we bring the drinks’ fun party vibe. It was glorious!

In Ksamil you will find one of the best rooftop nightclubs that had me up way past my bedtime, well it was my birthday! Bianco is the rooftop you need if you love to dance until dawn.

Vamos Bar, Ksmail

If you are in Ksmail you need to go to Vamos bar for the gram! Adorably decorated and notably in the shade which in the height of summer was welcomed.

Escape Resto Lounge

A gorgeous beach club style lounge that really does offer escape – perfect for sunset or post dinner drinks or both. Just watch the steps there, they are camouflaged – I went flying! (Amazingly no injuries)

Madfish Restaurant

I read some polarising reviews about this restaurant but yet it seemed to draw us in due to it’s waterfront setting. Thankfully the food and wine was wonderful. The service was a bit slow but we had the sunset to enjoy while we waited. Due to the location I would recommend.

Is Albania Instagram versus reality?

I was first enticed by Albania by the photo’s of the crystal clear waters and claiming cheap prices. The ‘Maldives of Europe’ is what many have dubbed it or ‘Greece but on a budget’. I certainly didn’t find it to be either. It is it’s own country and experience and certainly there are many influences here. The Blue Eye really takes me to Split and the Krka Waterfalls, the promenade in Saranda, Playa De Palma vibes and the beach clubs of Ksamil reminiscent of Ibiza San Antonio.

I also saw many video’s claiming the area was catfishing tourists with scenes of building works, undeveloped derelict areas and poor paving. There were these but they didn’t take away from the trip. Unless of course you had a hotel with these views, which is why I researched where we stayed extensively. What I found more with the pavements was they were too small for the volume of people, especially at night and not safe if you wore heels. This is a developing area so you won’t be seeing stone washed streets such as Greece offers. If you had not known or seen this side then I could see how visitors could feel duped a bit.

I was also surprised by the number of beggars, but Albania is a developing and poor country. Despite the emergence of glamorous beach clubs, it doesn’t have celebrity homes the or decadence as places like Ibiza. The contrast between the opulence of some areas and the economic reality was humbling.

Final thoughts on visiting South Albania

South Albania was everything I hoped for and more, with expectations managed. I was initially anxious about the fact that much communication and confirmation were done through WhatsApp, and many venues seemed entirely unresponsive. As a planner, the lack of reservations for every detail of the trip made it challenging for me to relax and pack efficiently but we had no problem eating and drinking at all our chosen venues!

The service, however, was quite varied. Waiters often seemed to stand around, and getting their attention was a challenge. We encountered some peculiar and inflexible rules, such as being unable to order a side of fries with certain main courses or split the bill. Despite these quirks, it added a humorous and unique element to our experience.

Overall, it’s important to remember that the area has only recently exploded in tourism. The first cocktail bar in Saranda opened just 15 years ago, and the region is rapidly catching up to meet the demands of tourists. The fact that we didn’t need any LEK, yet all the research suggested we did, highlights how quickly the area is adapting to support tourism. However, as its popularity continues to grow, so will the prices. So take this as your sign to make the Albanian Riviera your next destination.