Where Miami meets the Middle East, meets Brooklyn on the Beach, meets Berlin in Manhattan! Tel Aviv, is also the city that never sleeps! So many different influences, similarities, familiarities but yet this place is like no other. Dubbed one of the most expensive cities in the world, flying the flag for inclusivity with some of the best cuisine I have ever tasted, this won’t be a cheap trip but it will be one of the most memorable, incredible experiences you will ever have.
Discover the tremendous city of Tel Aviv
- How to get to Tel Aviv?
- How long to do I need to be at check in to leave Tel Aviv?
- How to get from Tel Aviv airport to the city?
- What is the Wi-Fi like in Tel Aviv?
- Are things open Friday evening to Saturday evening (Shabbat)
- Where to stay in Tel Aviv
- Exploring the areas of Tel Aviv
- Tel Aviv Shopping
- Tel Aviv Museum of Art
- What to Eat in Tel Aviv
- Do you tip in Tel Aviv?
- Can you drink the water?
- The Best Restaurants in Tel Aviv
- Tel Aviv Beaches
- The Best Beach Clubs and Rooftop Bars in Tel Aviv
- The Port in Tel Aviv
- Is it safe to travel to Tel Aviv?
- Final thoughts on visiting Tel Aviv
How to get to Tel Aviv?
There is one main airport to enter and leave Israel through, Ben Gurion. Based just outside Tel Aviv it serves all international flights. I’m always so excited arriving at a new airport but I was a little nervous for my first trip here and if you are reading this then it’s probably your first. (Second was much less anxious!) I had read everywhere that passport control takes ages, is pretty intense and scary. I learnt to be prepared for more questions in a side room, especially if you’ve been to an Arab country (which I had) However, this wasn’t my experience at all. I’m not saying it doesn’t happen but for me, other than asking more questions than I’m used to, I found the experience professional and polite. Don’t expect cheeky banter you may have had at other countries though! I also read about a lot of concerns about the passport stamp from Israel causing problems getting in other countries. But again no need to worry – they don’t stamp it. It’s now done on a piece of paper you just keep safe.
How long to do I need to be at check in to leave Tel Aviv?
A note for when you are returning to leave the country – you need to get to the airport 3 hrs minimum before leaving whether you have luggage or not! This was not a rumour! It’s one of the safest but most stringent securities I have ever been through but that means it takes time. I had my passport checked 6 times! But the reason it all takes so long is their rigorous explosive searches at the X-ray machines. First time I was in that queue for an hour and twenty- so don’t throw that bottle of water away as you’ll end up needing it in the queue! It took me just over 2 hrs from arrival to the gate – no shopping, no toilet stop, no time! So I would have missed my flight if I’d done my usual sliding in 1.5 hours before. Second time we had fast track through. This was super fast but no guarantees as its all about the volume of passengers. I went through T3 both times which is vast with lots of shops but not much in the way of bars or tourist tat so do get that before leaving or you’ll spend a fortune and it’s limited choice.
How to get from Tel Aviv airport to the city?
From the airport to Tel Aviv you have 3 options: Taxi, Gett taxi (download before you get there) or train. Train are twice an hour, only 18 mins and cheap – a few quid but you will most likely need an onward bus or cab in Tel Aviv. Except on Shabbat.
Gett app is like Uber only can pay in cash and due to my data restrictions issues and no wifi directly outside the airport, I opted for a regular taxi from the rank right outside, well left outside! (Like many international airports make sure you go to the official rank where the marshals will get you a taxi. (If any random approach say no!) Expect to pay £25-£40 depending on time of day. I paid 150 shekels cash approx £30 and agree it before you set off. Second time, pre arranged!
What is the Wi-Fi like in Tel Aviv?
Right from when you arrive you will find the Wi-Fi free and excellent. All of Tel Aviv was Wi-Fi fantastic and friendly from cafes to shops! Which if you are coming from the U.K. will probably need as most plans don’t include Israel in its travel plans!
Are things open Friday evening to Saturday evening (Shabbat)
First thing to note when visiting Israel is that from Friday sundown to Saturday sundown is Shabbat. This is, in simplest terms described to me as ‘the time nothing new should be created’ but think of it like how Sunday’s used to be – many things are closed. So if you are arriving in those times expect limited transport options. Most bars and restaurants will be open.
Where to stay in Tel Aviv
For my first trip I was baffled at where to stay as I knew very little about Tel Aviv. I love staying with sea views but equally this was a winter break. Turns out it didn’t really matter as it’s all so close, walkable and cabs are cheap. Two in shortlist were TVL Urban with an incredible photo worthy reception and rooftop bar! And The Lighthouse – also with also an incredible rooftop bar. (You can see my priorities!) No pool and the bar wasn’t open in the day (in winter) but sensational views.
The winner was the Poli House Hotel which is part of the Brown hotels – there are a lot of them in the city. I chose this one for its heated rooftop pool, obviously! It is also perfectly located right beside Carmel market.
The reception is located on the top floor, which is a bit weird as you arrive to a bare basic concierges desk downstairs. But are soon are wowed by the rooftop perched on top.
The basic room was small, super clean with a free bottle of ouzo! No tea and coffee machine (always annoying) but excellent black out curtains (dangerous for over sleeping!). The bathroom was spotless, fabulous shower and amenities though the door was weird as was also the door for the shower. But it worked for us for a few days break.
Arriving in time for sunset dip on the rooftop was the perfect start. The main bar is actually enclosed in the winter. This turned out to be very typical of Tel Aviv. They love their rooftop bars and the need for winter warmth! For all rooftops in Tel Aviv click here!
My second trip I stayed at The Norman hotel dubbed the best hotel in Tel Aviv. It’s boutique Lux where you are made to feel so at home, you will want to move in. This is not a cheap option!
The rooms were a little noisy but this was explained ‘as it was in a city’ lol. Also no plugs by the bed is a rookie oversight but one the manager is fixing, he told me! But the cleanliness and touches like the restocked water every day negated this. Oh and did I mention the beds. I am super fussy about beds and these go in my top 3 hotel beds ever!
Despite being a boutique hotel they manage to pack in 3 dining areas, a library bar and the icing on the cake – a rooftop pool! As you would expect it gets packed on warm days. Note that there are only a few beds facing the pool the rest have amazing city views, And do not miss sunset – it is super special.
The library bar located in the lobby packs a punch with its boujee vibes and crafted cocktails, served by some of the friendliest, kind bar staff. It very much a Friday night hang out venue – not just for guests so get there early if you want to perch at the bar.
Exploring the areas of Tel Aviv
Much like London and NYC, Tel Aviv districts are very different. Nahalat Benjamin & Neve Tzedek was where I was based and good for everything from shopping to restaurants to rooftops and the famous Carmel market which is full of food and spices, fruit and veg – including the persimmon fruit or its nickname the Sharon fruit. A cross between a tomato and a apple & a plum – seedless, no core and twice the fibre of an apple!
It also has a huge amount of tourist tat – so get your souvenirs here for a quarter of the price at the airport! Also to note these markets are busy and bustling but nothing like the intimidating. souks I’ve been to in Morocco. These are vibrant and fun and I felt totally safe.
In Neve Tzedek there is an area south that is like a little country of its own located in the old train station. Florentine and Jaffa areas feel Bondi meets Berlin student hip vibe with amazing vegan restaurants. Jaffa is the historic port city that is now part of the greater Tel Aviv metropolitan area in Israel.
Fun fact: Jaffa is actually the place Jaffa oranges come from and therefore Jaffa cakes are named from and yes I did eat a Jaffa Cake in Jaffa!
There is also the famous hanging orange tree that seems to float in the air. Designed by Israeli artist Ran Morin it is an actual live tree that bears fruit!
Jaffa, meaning destiny and destination is one of my famous areas, with the homage astrology, with street signs made out of ceramic. You can see if you can find yours here.
There is also wishing bridge and wishing well dedicated to the zodiac signs. Fairly new to the area in 2011 If you had to make a wish this is the place.
Tel Aviv Shopping
Shopping in Tel Aviv is a little bit different as every shopping mall will have armed guards and you will be asked to show your bag on entrance. Coming from the UK this was a bit confronting the first time but actually it is just really reassuring.
I was quite disappointed with the malls, just full of the same brands as any major city. There was the odd unique shop but if you are looking for something different stick to independent shops outside of them.
Tel Aviv Museum of Art
The first art museum in Israel, born in 1932 was a brilliant way to spend a morning. Israeli and international artists showcased in multiple exhibitions. If you fancy staying for lunch or a coffee there is a inviting alfresco dining area should you make a day if it.
What to Eat in Tel Aviv
The first thing to say about Tel Aviv is their food is a foodie’s dream and a dieters nightmare! From little cafes in Jaffa to fancy restaurants in White City – you will have a taste sensation. Breakfast over brunch is a thing here running most of the day so basically brunch/ lunch! Shakshouka is incredibly popular as avo on toast was made famous in Australia. Eggs cooked in tomato sauce with bread and tahini and a salad – the two staples with everything. You will eat more tahini than you know you needed or wanted! Hummus is also a huge favourite here – famous for it in fact. But my favourite was Halva. A sesame seed sweet chalk like cake. It sounds disgusting but it was so good and comes in so many flavours!
If you are vegan or gluten free then you are in the right city. Most dishes were catered for effortlessly and easily. However gluten free bread was totally scarce. Really random but thankfully there was so much choice in the other dishes it didn’t matter.
Do you tip in Tel Aviv?
Tipping is a thing and it’s around 10- 12%. With their directness they will ask too: ‘service isn’t included how much do you want to add?’ If you feel it’s been good then say the percentage rather than an amount. If it’s been dreadful be direct back!
Can you drink the water?
Water is safe to drink from the tap (except at the Dead Sea) and as I have a very sensitive stomach with IBD but was totally fine.
The Best Restaurants in Tel Aviv
Restaurant Vicky Cristina
Starting Spanish inspired tapas at Restaurant Vicky Cristina. Sat in Israel, outside felt like a Greek Taverna being served tapas, fully recommend.
Port Sa’id
Port Sa’id is not my usual go to but my friend loved this place. Think Dalston vibes, shared benches, little table huddles, heaters in the winter with great food and fabulous service including free shots! Turned out gifting shots is a thing here. Not tacky bars though fun like an aperitif or digestive! Some places like here even offer you any shot you fancy! (Which is helpful as we all have that one shot we can’t even have again!)
The Brothers – Ha achim
Going straight in to say, this is where I had the second best lamb dish of my life. (Number one spot goes to Cafe Des Epices in Marrakesh. The Brothers restaurant was a warm welcoming environment, full of fun and free following shots. Bustling and bursting it was packed every night with a winning combination of fabulous food and electic energy.
Yom Tov Café
Yom Tov embodies the Tel Aviv café culture, perfect for breakfast & coffees by day and drinks and dinner with fresh food from the Carmel market next door. Best enjoyed inside for its library quirky vibe and decor.
Haj Kahil
A secret find from Haj Kahil in Jaffa is a local unassuming restaurant – in fact if you didn’t know about it you’d miss it. Famed by locals for this stuffed lamb dish and OMG it was incredible – an absolute must especially if you walk from Tel Aviv to Jaffa you basically deserve it!
Cafe Europa
Once crowned the best restaurant in Tel Aviv by Time Out, this gorgeous restaurant is based at Rothschild Boulevard. Serving up huge portions and judging by the smell of the smoke coming from the back I can understand why!
TOTO Restaurant
Toto restaurant was a vibe with incredible food and huge portions – you really don’t need a starter!! Sadly the service was terrible which did let it down but it could have been a bad day so including as it wins on everything else.
Social Club
The Social Club is your fun Friday night energy – music a bit loud for dinner but all part of the crowd. Food was fabulous definitely one for girls night!
Pronto Restaurant
Pronto is an institution in Tel Aviv. Reinventing itself through the changes but always maintaining the professionalism and the quality it began with over 20 years ago. As such the portion sizes are spot on and their chocolate pudding is to live on in my memory!
George & John Restaurant
Geore & John is based at the delightful Drisco Hotel just up from Charles Clore Beach. Serving up fine dining in a relaxed beautiful setting with spot on service, a memorable and magical culinary journey.
Tel Aviv Beaches
Tel Aviv is home to a breathtaking coastline comprising of 13 beaches that flow into one another along a stunning sandy stretch of 14 kilometres. There are beach gyms and lifeguarding huts bringing to life the ‘Miami meeting the Middle East’ nickname. One of the beaches is named ‘Banana beach’ and yes I had to eat a banana on banana beach!!
On Frishman Beach you will find the famous sculpture and tribute to the late Prime Minister, Ben Gurion on who used to do his daily exercise here. I did not replicate this.
This same beach you can also find the giant deck chairs for you to climb and pose in – though, they should come with a warning that getting out is less easy an not graceful!
Another great photo opportunity is on Charles Clore Park, on the boarder of Jaffa. An insta worthy frame capturing Jaffa’s beauty behind is calling being captured, with the slogan, ‘we don’t do winter’. Never resonated more!
The Best Beach Clubs and Rooftop Bars in Tel Aviv
Hilton Bay
Hilton Bay beach club and restaurant was a vivacious and a vibe. Weekends were more pretentious so definitely enjoy in the week for a slower pace but as it has a little rooftop I highly recommend.
Por Do Sol
Just off from the beach I stumbled across Por Do Sol. A beach bar perched up on high complete with a palm tree Hawaiian hat which had me craving a hula skirt and flower garland. I settled for a Pina colada and the stunning sea views.
The Carlton
Though there is also a fantastic beach club at the Carlton Hotel it’s really about the rooftop. Wow of wow rooftops! It has everything: the views of the sea, harbour, city, beach and sunset. A bar, restaurant, pool and a jacuzzi! What more do you need! Well the lottery win to move in there!! (More info on my rooftop page)
The Port in Tel Aviv
The port is north of the city and full of waterside restaurants and shops. Despite posing by the sign situated there I found it a little lacking in soul compared to the rest of the city.
Is it safe to travel to Tel Aviv?
When I went, 2020 and 2023 I found it one of the safest places to visit. I had a few people who got in my head and so I was more anxious than usual going but I felt SO safe. So safe that one day I left my friend and went on a bus to Jerusalem (she’d already been). Yes it was organised but I knew no one and going off like that is not my style in a country I was so unfamiliar with at that time. But it was too an amazing opportunity to not.
The presence of armed police at shopping malls and even just wandering the streets could highlight danger but it’s only a bit unnerving as I wasn’t used to it. I found them unobtrusive and helpful. Obviously, like anywhere in the world, things can change so always check the government website before travel.
2023/4 Update: I do not feel qualified to answer this in the current climes. I haven’t been since October so can only speak about my experiences before that horrendous day.
Final thoughts on visiting Tel Aviv
There is one other country I have connected to as I did Israel and Tel Aviv and that is Australia and Sydney. I have no heritage to either yet I feel I have known these cities my whole life. The inner calm, the feeling of safety and set both by the sea. The people share many commonalities by one I respect the most is their directness. They say it as it is. Even in their signage! It is refreshing but for some could be a little confronting.
This extended to being told if they find you attractive (Sydney men less so on this one!) but it’s not sleazy or creepy but it can get boring if you aren’t interested (first world problems right there). Tel Aviv really is truly tremendous, I would encourage anyone to experience the sheer magnetic energy of this city but it is also perfect base to explore Israel from – so don’t confine yourself. Go explore Masada, Jerusalem the Dead Sea and so much more. Click here for those guides.
