Jerusalem, one of the oldest cities in the world that has the power to units and divide so many. Cohabited by Jews, Christians, and Muslims each with their own religious significance to this historic city. From the Western Wall to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Dome of the Rock, whatever your background or belief, exploring this holy land is a once in a life time experience.
Discover the incredible Holy City of Jerusalem
- How to get to Jerusalem
- What is the best way to see Jerusalem?
- Should I choose a group tour or a private tour?
- Visiting Mount of Scopus at the Tabachnik Garden
- Visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
- Walk the Via Dolorosa
- Discover the different quarters
- What you need to know to visit the Western or Wailing Wall
- The Horva Synagogue (Beit Yaakov)
- The Dome of Rock
- Rooftops in Jerusalem
- Where to have lunch
- What to wear when visiting Jerusalem
- Visit Yad Vashem
- Final thoughts on visiting Jerusalem
How to get to Jerusalem
As there is only one international airport in Israel you will need to fly into Tel Aviv, read more on arriving in Israel here. Jerusalem is located approximately 40 miles from Tel Aviv centre or 30 miles from the airport. Both have a direct fast train service in just 15 – 30 minutes. Driving takes longer and there is a bus. Full details here. If you are not staying in Jerusalem and want to arrange a tour then read on, I have done both a group and private tour.
What is the best way to see Jerusalem?
An organised tour is a really smart way to see Jerusalem for your first visit. It I found the quarters very confusing and you easily can get lost. In particular, I would have a guide for the ‘Via Dolorosa’ . This is the processional route Jesus was believed to have taken as he carried the cross to his crucifixion. The added knowledge from the guides at each stop, as well as not getting lost really added a depth to the experience. Plus don’t under estimate how many question you will suddenly have.
If I were doing it over, I would have stayed a few nights in Jerusalem. Done a tour to get the lay of the land on my first morning and then used the rest of the time to wander and explore myself. If you are staying in Tel Aviv and time is limited, I would highly recommend a group half day tour but stay on in the city for the rest of the day yourself and get the train back to Tel Aviv when you are ready.
Should I choose a group tour or a private tour?
Whether you choose a private tour or group, full day or half, will come down to budget and preferences. With a private tour you can obviously tailor it to your specific requirements including where you eat, when you stop and how much you learn. This is particularly helpful if you party are from the same religion. As with all group tours you are beholden to the needs of the whole group and the tight schedule but it is a fraction of the cost. I have done both so will talk you through then options.
Even if you aren’t religious, don’t under estimate how exhausting just a few hours can be. So much information, so many emotions, such energy and vast amount to see.
Group tour – pros and cons
There’s plenty of choice for group tours, all very similar with other trips included such as the Dead Sea after Jerusalem. I chose mine through Get my Guide. Easy meeting point outside my hotel and right on cue, picked up in a little mini bus. We were then driven to just outside the city to switch buses. (They pick up all their tours for the day then organise who goes in which bus rather than multiple pick ups from the same hotels for different tours) A bit of a faff but all highly organised and friendly. I was struck by how many young solo travellers there were like me.
Our first bathroom stop was at the Elvis Diner. Yes, that’s right. No idea why other than maybe an arrangement they have with tour companies!? But hey, if you are an Elvis fan you’ll love it. Your tour may not have this so you can check! Then FINALLY we were on our way to Jerusalem. The rest of the tour played out as per the itinerary. The plus side was meeting some great people and everything being militantly organised, so the key sites were included. The downside was the food was not great at lunch, there was little opportunity to get any souvenirs except from a very over priced shop that clearly there was a relationship with.
Private tour – pros and cons
I was lucky enough to have a private guide for my second trip, Yoav Biller. Yoav was with us from Tel Aviv and back. The richness to the stories, the accommodating all our requests and thoughtfulness really made such a difference. Plus he doubled up as our personal photographer! Fully recommend this if you have the budget, which is really the only con!
Visiting Mount of Scopus at the Tabachnik Garden
The Mount of Scopus (which is part of the ridge mountains which includes the Mount of Olives). It’s also a famous look out point, part of the Tabachnik Garden where the Hebrew university was built. With incredible views over the old and new city from Temple Mount to the Dome of Rock. It was beyond breathtaking.
There’s also a handy map so you actually know what you are looking at if you don’t have a helpful guide! I saw this on my group tour as a photo opportunity stop. You would need a car or a tour for it,
Visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The church is build on 3 sites; the crucifixion site, where the body was laid out and where he was buried. Not being religious I was intrigued and open to the experience but was not prepared for how incredibly moving this place would be or how busy! So go early if the church is important to you.
As you enter you are faced with the Stone of Unction and many people gathered round wanting to touch it or lay jewellery on it. (More on this below.) To your right are stairs that lead up to the crucifixion site. As I climbed the stone stairs I was hit with the most powerful, emotional and incredible energy, which was a total surprise.
The burial site/ tomb is enclosed within the church round to the left and the queues can be hours long. So if this is important to you, do a tour learn where everything is easily then go back early morning when it opens. In my group tour one girl stayed to queue and arranged to meet us after but meant she missed so much else.
Buying or taking jewellery for the Stone of Unction
On my group tour we were first taken to a souvenir shop to get gifts to lay on the Stone of Unction in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre – where Christians believe Jesus body was laid out after his death. It is thought this stone is blessed. It has become a tradition for people to buy jewellery in Jerusalem and lay it on the stone for either themselves or for gifts. I actually thought this was brilliant idea as gifts for my Christian friends but found the one shop we had access to on the group tour are massive rip off. So I would recommend taking your own jewellery or gifts with you or shop around, especially if on a group tour.
Walk the Via Dolorosa
The Via Dolorosa consists of 14 stations along this route. Each marked with signs of where Jesus allegedly carried the cross to his crucifixion. This is where a guide was invaluable as he explained what each station meant and what was supposed to have happened at them. (The final few are in the church so some people like to do this route first on their visit to end up at the church) You can of course find a wealth of information on line but it don’t answer the questions you won’t know you have.
At station 5, one of the most popular, it is believed that Jesus had one of three stumbles and placed his hand on the wall to steady himself. As such the stone has been worn by all those wanting to touch this place. Bring hand sanitizer!
Discover the different quarters
Walking through the different quarters: Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Armenian is a journey back in time. All living in peace side by side. Each quarter felt noticeably different as you effortlessly moved between them. That is except the Armenian quarter which had armed police preventing anyone in – you can enter but at very specific times.
There are plenty of stalls and market shops and drink stops along the route – less able to stop in a tour but there if needed. From juice bars to every souvenir you could think of, some with great humour!
Our private guide warned us about a scam where someone approaches you with a ‘gift.’ Although it didn’t happen to us, he advised us to simply refuse and say ‘no thank you,’ as accepting it could lead to them accusing you of theft. Quite a common tourist trap in many countries.
What you need to know to visit the Western or Wailing Wall
The ‘Wailing’ or ‘Western‘ wall is the religious site for the Jewish community, open 24/7 all year round to all, it is protected by security check points. Much like airport security, you will need to pop your belongs through a scanner – so I felt extremely safe. There is a list of prohibited items from balloons, to alcohol to sharp objects. Full list can be found here.
The first thing to note is to be respectful, this is a ‘working’ prayer site and whilst attracting huge numbers of tourists this is also where citizens come to pray, especially at Shabbat. Legs and shoulders should be covered if you are wishing to pray at the wall as well as men’s heads with a kippah. You can stand from afar in the area if you don’t want to go down to the wall where there is no eating or drinking. During Shabbat there is also no photos, phones or writing. Essentially not creating anything new as per their religion.
The second thing to note is that the wall is gender divided. It is the Jewish male duty to pray so they have a much larger section, some of which stretches out of site.
Many people come to stand and pray but many come to place a message to god in the wall via a note on a piece of paper. There are stands with pieces of paper and pens you can borrow if you didn’t bring one with you. The notes are collected every couple of months and buried under the mount of Olives as the Jewish law forbids prayer notes to be thrown away. But if you can’t get there to leave one – they will do it for you via their website! You don’t have to be Jewish or religious to do this. Much like lighting a candle in a church it can bring much comfort but don’t light a candle as that is also forbidden.
Not being Jewish or religious (might have mentioned that a few times now but I feel its important for context) I found this almost as profound an experience as I did the church, so don’t skip just because you might think it’s just for the Jewish community. It is open to all.
The Horva Synagogue (Beit Yaakov)
A Jewish Symbol also known as The Ruined Synagogue has been destroyed many times during conflict but today it stands tall since it’s reconstruction in 2010 as a symbol of resilience.
The Dome of Rock
An iconic symbol when looking over the city of Jerusalem is the gold topped, Dome Of Rock, Set on Temple Mount this is an Islamic shrine believed by Muslims to be the place the Prophet Muhammad ascended to Heaven. Anyone can visit but non Muslims are not permitted to pray or bring any other religions symbols or artefacts. No shorts permitted and However opening times are limited so check before you go here.
Rooftops in Jerusalem
Yes even in this holy historic city there are rooftops! As I was on tours for both trips I only have two to share but that is two more than I expected to see! The Christian Information Center is just as you arrive and a great place to have a coffee and take in this spiritual city with sensational views.
On my group tour we were taken to lunch at the Golden Panoramic City Restaurant – a total fluke was a rooftop restaurant or God was moving in mysterious ways! I absolutely would not recommend the food but the views, they are worth having a coffee for. There is little online but what I have found is here.
Not a bar so not over on my rooftop page but a pretty special rooftop was to be on top of the Chapel of Saint Helena which is part of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Known as Deir Al-Sultan, it is the monastery of the Sultan.
Where to have lunch
This was where having a private guide paid off! Yoav took us to Abu Kamel restaurant. Famous for having the third best humous in Israel, an authentic locals experience with incredible food!
What to wear when visiting Jerusalem
So first thing to note is clothing if you are planning to visit the old city is its a Holy City so make sure you have clothes that can cover legs and shoulders depending where you want to go. And good shoes for walking. You are on your feet, over cobbles through markets. The second thing to note is it is a few degrees cooler than Tel Aviv as it is mountainous. So layers are key!
Visit Yad Vashem
If you have time I would really recommend a trip to Yad Vashem – the World Holocaust Remembrance Centre based aptly on the Mount of Remembrance. Its about 10/15 minute drive from the old city or there is public transport found here. Without doubt one of the most moving and confronting museums I have been to, beautifully and honestly curated.
The museum is enormous, set in stunning grounds so allow a good 2-3 hours if you are really interested in learning and paying your respects to this horrific time in history. You can also book a private guide at the museum. This is very much personal preference in hindsight I would have preferred to go at my own pace due to my personal interest and already deep knowledge of such unbelievably awful events.
Final thoughts on visiting Jerusalem
Like many, I had grown up with the story of the bible, at a Christian school in the UK, despite not being raised religious. I celebrated Christmas and Easter, dressed up as a sheep in a nativity and every year sang very badly ‘Away in a manger’. Christmas was about a family meal, watching Mary Poppins and of course the gifts from Santa. Easter was about all the chocolate. So unlike many religious peers I had no huge desire to visit from a from that perspective. I am however what I define as spiritual, I get energy and have a belief. It is just not something defined by anyone else. I naively wasn’t expecting how much this place would change and expand me. I can’t explain it but it happened both times. From the moment of arriving into the city gates I was proudly affected. It’s a weird sense of calm despite this being such busy bustling vibrant city surrounded by conflict. Whatever your reason for going you will get so much from your visit even if it is just the most amazing memories.
