Split, a perfectly formed UNESCO town with culture, beach clubs, rooftops and the famous rIva walkway. Once home to the romans its steeped in history and culture. Plus it’s a perfect base to explore its beautiful neighbouring islands and stunning national parks. Here’s all you need to know to get the most out of this special Croatian town.
When I found out my grandparents had been here 60 years ago I knew I had to follow in family footsteps! It’s certainly not the cheap option it was a few years ago but it was so worth it. Memories last a life time and many more were made this trip. So let’s go…
Discover Stunning Split
How long should you spend in Split?
The ideal duration will of course depends on your travel preferences. For a well-rounded experience, I recommend spending at least 5 days in this enchanting city. This allows you to immerse yourself in the historical treasures of Diocletian’s Palace, explore the bustling old town, and indulge in the local cuisine at charming restaurants and have a few beach days. If you are tight on time then in just 2-3 days you can do a lot! Equally you can use Split as your base as there are many day trips to be done from here. All depends is you like having a home while on holiday or if unpacking and packing are your thing. If it’s the latter then I would recommend moving round the islands and the stunning surrounding Croatian landscape.
How to get to Split
Split has an international airport which is based about 40 minutes from the city which can also serve those heading to Dubrovnik. You could fly to Dubrovnik and then make your way down by hire care if exploring more of Croatia.
There are many options for the airport transfer. There’s a local bus that is just a few euros that drops in the centre of Split – especially good for the back packers and island hoppers. Taxis can be pre booked but I found them significantly more expensive than Uber /Bolt, so opted for that. If you do too then head to the right of the airport on to the main road where you can meet your driver. It’s pretty clear on the app and not complicated – mine came quicker than London so yes there were running scenes with over sized suitcases. So maybe get to the road then order yours.
Where to stay in Split
I really wanted to stay at Le Meriden, mainly due to their beach club. But it was out of budget. The more I researched, the more it wouldn’t have been right for us. It was out in Podstrana. Only 10/15 Uber away from the city – not far at all but I wanted it be able to walk in and out of the city. If however you are looking for a flop and drop all encompassing hotel with just a few exploring days then I would recommend it.
I decided for this trip we needed to be in Split city centre and I was torn between three hotels, yes all with rooftop pools! Obviously! The Ambassador – to the left of the city. Whose pool was actually turned out to be only on the 3rd floor but surrounded by a wonderful lounging area. Corona – in the Center with the best pool with a view. And the Brigg Boutique to the right of Split city. Sitting just up from Bracvice beach. The only sand beach in Split.
The latter won due to its location and being the cheapest at the time and I’d full recommend for a city break. Just a 10 minute walk to the ferry port, 15 to the city centre and 10 minute to a world of bars and clubs.
However the pool in reality was disappointingly small. It could have been an incredible infinity pool but the view is blocked while you are in it. Which made no sense but made for a funny pictures. It does work well as an end of day dip and sip on some bubbles pool! If you want a lazy pool day in between exploring then either of the other two hotels would be better.
The rooms at the Brigg were very clean, great bathroom – separate toilet, always smart! And super comfy beds! The attention to detail was slightly lacking – like fresh cups weren’t replaced but there was water and fruit platter on arrival and bubbles for my birthday. (A day late but the thought was there!)
The breakfast was small but full of choice. Including bubbles – which being there for my birthday would have been rude not to! Nice shady outside area to enjoy it in too.
This hotel is the first modern design in a cube structure and boasts a very arty staircase. Yes it required a catwalk style walk down one night, for fun! (Yes there is actual footage – it didn’t go so elegantly!)
Nightlife in Split
Split is home to many clubs and bars. As the city is protected by UNESCO there are some strict rules about being sick, drinking outside of the bars and beach wear with the motto: ‘You are walking through the city of a Roman emperor. Act like he’s at home!’
So we didn’t see any groups of young stags or hens out! Which was refreshing! But also means Bracvice beach area really came alive late at night (couldn’t hear anything from the hotel). Fjaka bar and Boss club were two of the places that were super popular but not much online about them.
Where to eat and drink in Split and at which rooftops!
This stunning city was also host to some sensational views. From the burnt orange city rooftops to bustling marina. You will be spoilt for choice for the rooftop bars. However I had read countless times that Split isn’t known for its good food but it is known for its huge portions! Many waiters would point to their belly’s and say to us ‘this is why I am fat!’. I am no foodie but I don’t want bad or a lot of food either! In hindsight I feel the reviews are fair – mostly the food it’s not great but I found a few gems though they come with a price tag and definitely book in advance.
Cornaro Rooftop Bar
Singling out Cornaro Hotel’s rooftop bar is a must for a pre dinner or sunset drink. A hotel rooftop that is open to the public with stunning city views.
Zoi Restaurant
Zoi restaurant was magical and definitely a blow out with a fixed menu – choice of 7 or 3 courses. I hadn’t realised this and am not a massive big meal fan but the portions were perfect (not standard Croatia at all!). As was the setting – in the walls of Palace of Diocletian! Perfect for a birthday princess! 😉 Reminded me of 360 restaurant in Dubrovnik. As with there, the service and food was spot on!
Konoba Argola
Konoba Argola in Podstana, about 30 mins in an Uber from Split city. This restaurant epitomized stunning views and authentic cuisine. Perched atop a cliff overlooking the ocean, it felt like stepping into a cinematic scene. A family-owned establishment, it operates on a cash-only basis, with women dressed in traditional Croatian attire providing attentive service. They even had honoured my table request. So I hesitate to say anything negative but if you are a foodie this isn’t for you. It was decent simple food and again a huge amount (which they send you away with if you can’t finish). But it certainly wasn’t fancy or the best food I’ve had. For me the views were worth that hit but I know plenty of people who the opposite to that.
Dvor Restaurant
Dvor found in gorgeous garden set up from the sea and only 10 minute walk in the opposite direction of the city. Like Zoi it was from the Michelin guide but unlike Zoi the portions were crazy big!
The starter risotto was the size of a generous main! And the main lamb was 4 chops! Sensational food, atmosphere and service. But skip lunch or the starters!
Fig
Fig came up a lot in my research. It had no views but the cutest courtyard and a sister restaurant in Hvar. We just stopped for a drink so can’t comment on the food.
L’Aroma
L’Aroma restaurant, at Hotel split, just a little walk from Le Meriden, also boasts an amazing rooftop pool and bar. It also looked like an incredible setting for dinner but pushed for time I opted for a pre dinner drink instead. Despite contacting them before to check they were open, it wasn’t. That said, access was allowed and we managed to find all the drinks downstairs and brought them up. While we were there they started to set it up for dinner and can see at sunset it would be magical.
Beach Clubs in Split
Gooshter beach club: Based at Le Meriden hotel in Podstrana. It was a 15 minute Uber from Split town. Much smaller than I had stalked on their socials but understated chic with lovely people. Special note to Emma who looked after us effortlessly all day.
You could hire a bed and towel for €50 and plonk yourself by the water or by their pool. As the sun was so hot we actually sat on their sofas in the shade in their restaurant. No charge for this. And you could just hop in and out of the sea when the heat got too much. That or order another pina colada! Positioned opposite the sea, this was the perfect setting for some down time. It even had a sign that said ‘there’s no angry way to say bubbles’! It’s like it was made for me. Just a rooftop bar needed and I would have moved in!
Do take note the sea is a floor of pebbles. You will need some sexy sea shoes if you are as clumsy as me! And its worth the effort as it’s also the clearest most mesmerising water, magical to float in. The beach club was so kind that whilst I was doing my floating that they also held us a table for lunch. So when we came back we could move the 5 yards from our sofa spot to sitting up to eat our lunch! We had fancied a change! It had already been such a hard and busy day!
Mistral beach club: This was another beach club that had come up high on searches but I didn’t love it as much. This was boujee at its best. The bold and beautiful posing for their perfect pictures (I mean we tried too!) Big cabanas for about 20 people with tasteful hen parties and all the selfies and champagne. As it was a little Uber ride from our hotel we decided to stay for lunch as planned but I probably wouldn’t rush back.
My recommendation would be to go early and do the bed hire rather than lunch. Lunch was just a few high tables so much less loungey. Oh and don’t order the quinoa salad – life is too short and it was too small! There was a restaurant set back from the club but it was more formal we wanted to just chill. However the water was magical (more pebbles) and service was fantastic. The staff were all lovely – easily expected them to be pretentious but not at all. Can imagine this place pops off at night.
What to do in Split
Climb Marjan Hill
Climb Marjan Hill for breathtaking views over all of Split. And by climb, I am not talking ropes and harnesses, simply wander up the streets, there are two ways to go and I fully suggest you go up one and down the other for variety! Take water! It doesn’t take that long – only 15/20 minutes from the palace but it feels longer! Follow google maps to Teraca Vidilica and then enjoy a well earned drinks and sweeping views. (Oh and if you feeling really fit you can climb another 15/20 minutes for an even higher view – I did not!
Explore Split Historic Town
Steeped in culture – originally founded as a Greek colony and then later by a Roman Emperor. Legend has it that its name originates after the yellow flower ‘brnistra’. It is also home to the oldest catholic cathedral in the world: The Saint Domnius. This city’s cathedral, that stands tall above the Croatian rusty rooftops as a jewel in Split crown.. For those who love a church this is a must to visit.
The old city is marked by 4 gates that all lead into the palace. Each is each a testament to Roman ingenuity, you’ll find yourself transported through time. Explore the labyrinthine streets within the palace walls, where modern shops, charming cafes, and historical landmarks coexist harmoniously. Not forgetting the Roman actors to have a pic with (bit gutted I forgot to do this!).
There’s plenty of bars and restaurants within the gates for pit stops. For the history buffs you can do tours, including going underground and see the cellars. Be sure to rub the toe of the giant statue Gregory of Nin at the Golden gate – for luck! He was a bishop who defended the Croatian culture and called out the Catholic Church for only teaching in Latin!
Split, is an absolute gem. It boasts a captivating charm that seems straight out of a picture postcard. Though it does remind me a bit of the village in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang that Baron Bomburts lived!
Shopping in Split
Shopping in Split is limited. This isn’t like somewhere like Malaga. It does have the classic stores such as Zara (though what city doesn’t now) but it’s not a shopping destination. The market however is huge! Lots of souvenirs and beach bits though it is a bit samey.
Day trips from Split
Visit Hvar and Brac Islands
Hvar and Brac islands are just two of zillions of islands you can get ferries to from Split or maybe island hopping is more your thing. Or you could hire a boat and sail them all! I took a day trip to Hvar and found a magical energy Split didn’t have, for me. The ferry takes about an hour and be warned it’s super confusing! To read about getting there and the best rooftops and Beach clubs there click here.
Experience the Krka Waterfalls and Skradin Town
This national park is just an hour outside of Split and is an absolute must for the most magical waterfalls in such a serene setting. Take a boat trip to the colourful Croatian town of Skradin. Here you can swim in the sea that meets the Krka river. And finish the day wine tasting at a local winery. To read more click here.
There is also the blue caves, day trips to Trogir and beyond which I would also have considered if have more time – guess I’ll be going back! I usually use Get Your Guide as a good option to book and see what’s available (this isn’t an ad genuinely always been brilliant). So if you have more time than me you can explore even more.
Final thought on visiting Split
Every moment in Split felt like a snapshot of paradise. It was a lot pricier than I was expecting but so worth it – this place won’t have you split on loving it. So if you are ready to explore these picturesque landscapes and create unforgettable memories then get booking! Let me know if you have any questions.