Why You Should Visit Cagliari: Where to Stay & What to Do

Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia, on the Gulf of Angels, is a charming, underrated Italian city that, after much research, I knew was the perfect long-weekend birthday destination. Overshadowed by the DJs and boujee beach clubs in the north of the island and the social-media frenzy of its neighbouring island, Sicily. Cagliari, the capital is hidden in the south and offers a truly wonderful traditional Italian summer destination. Just two hours from London and 20 minutes from Cagliari airport, you get a city, marina and beach all in one. I was sold. Move over Malaga and Barcelona though I do love them both! This city wasn’t saturating social media (nor over run with Brits) and I liked that. It felt like I was stepping into a real Italian summer.

Ideal whether you’re touring the whole island or looking for a short break, Cagliari delivers, especially if pizza and prosecco are your love languages! I was left wondering why I hadn’t had this stunning city on my radar sooner and you probably will too!

Best for: Beaches / pizza / culture / city views
Best time to visit: Shoulder season
How long to go for: A long weekend or as part of a trip around Sardinia
Nearest airport: Cagliari Elmas – around 20 minutes from the city centre
Getting around: The city is walkable but taxis are needed for getting to the beach
My verdict: Expensive but worth it for a more authentic side of Sardinia and largely free from Brits!

How to Get to Cagliari

As Cagliari is on the island of Sardinia, the simplest way to get there is to fly into Cagliari Elmas Airport. It’s just two hours from London Gatwick and there is a train that runs straight from the terminal into the city in just seven minutes. Unless, like me, your flight is delayed and you miss the last one!

Then jump in a cab lined up outside the airport for €26 and be delivered to your hotel in 17 minutes. Yes, I timed it. I was also aware my hotel rooftop closed at midnight and it was already 10.30pm! I had planned the bus for €1.30 as I was hand-luggage only, but my research is your gain.

So , if you have more time, follow the signs to Elmas Aeroporto station from the terminal and buy a ticket at the airport. Trains come every 20 minutes and take just seven minutes. But they stop around 9pm. Boo! For more detailed information see the Cagliari Airport train information.

One thing I would add from my 2026 visit: the new e-gates had just come into force but, as I have an Irish passport, I sailed through in around 10 minutes. The queues for anyone without a European passport were long, though, with over an hour quoted when I landed. I also saw families being split between queues, so if you don’t have an EU passport, allow extra time.

Where to Stay in Cagliari – City or Poetto Beach?

This is a tricky question which, honestly, was answered for me by availability! Where you stay largely depends on whether you want a beach break or city break. You can have both, but you need to be based in one. Here’s my top three I whittled it down to, based on their rooftops and which I chose and why:

Hotel Nautilus Excelsior, Poetto Beach

If I had been staying longer than four nights and they actually had availability (they didn’t!), I would have opted for Hotel Nautilus Excelsior, the first adults-only hotel with a rooftop. Not to be confused with its sister hotel, Hotel Nautilus, a few yards away. It is one of the first hotels you meet from the city, making it easy to taxi to and fro. Newly on the scene, it also boasts a rooftop that only opened in 2026.

I was gutted it was full but, as I knew I would be running around the city and on tours, I made sure it still featured in my trip. In fact, it was the highlight of my birthday as turned out you can book for breakfast as a non guest. [Read my full rooftop review.]

D.H. Laurence Hotel, Castello district of the city

Another I considered was D.H. Lawrence Hotel, a boutique hotel in the Castello district, also with a rooftop. And yes it is named after the famous author who wrote ‘Sea and Sardinia’ in 1921 after visiting the island. He referred to capital city as ‘strange and stony’ which I can see back then it could have been perceived as such.

He also explains that the city, as I learnt the hard way, is like a ‘corkscrew stairway’. The Castello district that this hotel sits high up (not clear on google maps!) is full of hills, twists, turns and stairs. On my visit to the rooftop I was dripping with sweat by the time I made it. My phone even overheated and google maps died! So, for me personally, I knew I would have struggled every day.

That said, the hotel is bursting with character and a treasure trove for any book lover. It even has a cellar they are turning into a restaurant due to the heat as it’s cooler than the rooftop down in the deep of the underground! The irony.

Casa Clat, just off the marina in the city

The last runner-up was Casa Clàt, but its rooftop is only for private hire. Side note: if you have a special celebration, I would highly recommend it. The hotel was gorgeous, with a downstairs pool and terrace that was giving rooftop vibes even though firmly on the floor! But no rooftop bar meant it stayed a runner-up.

Palazzo Tirso MGallery Cagliari, Marina district of the city

I opted for Palazzo Tirso MGallery Cagliari Hotel on the marina. Part of the MGallery collection, it believes in “creating memorable and meaningful experiences – fleeting moments that will last forever.” And I would highly agree they do! Only a few years old and set in a 1920s building which has been fully renovated, it has one of the best rooftops in Cagliari. [Read my full hotel review.]

But notable was the service. From the minute I arrived and met the doorman, to the breakfast team, reception and rooftop team, everyone was so kind and helpful. All genuinely warm and welcoming. The room was generous, though there were some snags in the bathroom but more design over practical use winning! Otherwise I loved it and would highly recommend, especially as it had one the best rooftops!

How to Get Around Cagliari

One of the reasons I chose this city was how walkable it all was between the marina and city. The steep stairs and hills deep in the city and are something to note if you have any mobility issues. However to get to the beach or If you’re staying at the beach and want to get to the marina or city, you will need a car or taxi.

The local taxis are as fast to arrive, as are Uber and cost roughly the same, so it really boils down to personal preference. I preferred Uber as it was automatically paid for and I didn’t have to worry about whether I’d said the wrong place, although most taxis have a card machine and many drivers spoke good English.

One aspect of this I wasn’t expecting was the expense of the taxis. An average trip was around £20–25, which means dinner on the cliff top can add £50 to the bill as there’s no other easy way to get back unless you drive.

What to Do in Cagliari

Go Flamingo Watching!

Cagliari is a flamingo haven! Who knew, not me! The Molentargius-Saline Natural Park is home to hundreds of flamingos and so I looked into the best way to see these fine creatures. I did look at whether I could walk here. I am glad I didn’t attempt it as involved highways! I took a taxi. But if you do too, note that when they drop you it can feel like you are in the middle of no where! I honestly thought I had been abandoned in the middle of this deserted park! Actually, it’s just that the taxi doesn’t drive down to the Flamingo Centre (nor picks up from it either). And just a few feet away down a track, I found the big building, fake flamingos and people hanging around. I popped inside (yes, there are toilets) and announced my arrival as I had booked in advance – highly recommended as you don’t want to make it here and find there are no spaces.

I used GetYourGuide and did the 90 minutes one as that felt ample time. Once it’s time, you sit in a buggy in groups of three and are driven around the park with fun facts being thrown around. If, like me, you can’t be in the sun, don’t sit on the right side of the buggy, sit behind the driver as the sun hits the right side. I was very grateful I had a shirt to cover my burning legs!

I was also worried about the water, humidity and mossies, but one of the facts I learnt was that flamingos eat them! Though I would still spray up. Not one bite for me. If I was doing this trip again, I would probably skip this tour. Not because it wasn’t informative as it was but the flamingos are quite far away and, once you’ve seen a few and it’s hot, I got a bit bored. Probably should have opted for the wine tasting instead! But it was my first morning and actually forced me up and out and something different, so I am glad I did it.

Go Shopping

Aside from my need to buy a flamingo (soft toy, they aren’t for sale!). I also found some great independent shops and, of course, the Rinascente department store. And note, despite what the internet may tell you, Obicà Mozzarella Bar is not a rooftop bar and restaurant. It is on top of the shopping centre, but there is no outdoor space, which is my qualifier! So head to Cielo Rooftop if you’re looking for magical marina views.

Sail Around the Gulf of Angels & Sella del Diavolo

I love a boat trip but I don’t need a whole day to do what can be enjoyed in half that time. I had originally booked a two-hour trip but it was on a RIB boat with wine. I have a dodgy back and need shade and decided it wasn’t worth the risk even though cheaper after I messaged them. Super helpful they suggested a Catamaran boat would be better. It did cost more, was three hours but had shade and included a glass of prosecco. Much more civilised! If this sounds like your kind of trip then it was through GetYourGuide.

This was a highlight of the trip. Firstly, the boat went from outside my hotel! I could even see it from the rooftop! Hello marina location paying off. There was shaded seating for 3–4 people, which ironically was the amount who wanted it. The rest were on the deck sunbathing which was more spacious than it seemed.

We sailed to a couple of swimming spots, heard some interesting stories about the Devil fighting the Angel and saw places along the way I had already been to for lunch on the clifftop of Capo Santa Elia which I then recommended to my new friends! Run by a couple who actually live on the boat. And their enthusiasm and humour, considering they do this day in day out, made the trip!

Have the Best Ice Cream

This gelato shop’s name, Peter Pan, held a special meaning for me and it wasn’t just the name. It was the first ice cream shop where I could get a gluten-free cone and dairy-free ice cream. As it was right by my hotel, I can’t deny I may have had a few during my stay. Especially at night.

Walk Along the Marina at Night and Make a Wish!

Amazing colour-changing giant Dandelions stand proudly along the marina. Ideal if, like me, you have a birthday and want to make a wish! To find their exact location, you can find them on google maps.

Have a Coffee at the Italian Version of Breakfast at Tiffany’s!

OK, that is my twist, not theirs, on this gorgeous café called Cafeteria Tiffany, although when in Italy an Aperol is more appropriate. I found it was quite a fun, young crowd that hung out here and, as it has a lot of tables and chairs off the main road, it felt more like a destination than a transient café.

Wander the City and See Sardinia’s History Come to Life

From the Elephant Tower to the botanical gardens, this capital city was a maze to wander around and yes, I got lost. My phone got too hot and shut down just as I was mid-Castello district in its windy small roads, so naturally I used it as an excuse for a rest! But as much as it is a small city, it is also pretty packed. Ideal for a weekend.

Spend a Day at Poetto Beach: But which Beach Club?

One of the longest urban beaches in Europe, Poetto had me deep in research trying to choose a beach club! There are so many, all dotted along the seven miles towards Quartu Sant’Elena, which is essentially part of the greater Cagliari urban area, but technically its own separate city. Not to confuse matters! I was. So if you’re trying to choose, here is my experience and what, depending on your budget, I would recommend, as the reviews widely conflict.

There are basic Italian beach clubs with a metal bed frame where you bring your own towel, the sort where families book for the whole summer. Then there are the higher-end options that the words “beach club” usually equate to: mattresses, a more luxe feel and day hire. Or on a strict budget – just bring a towel and pick a spot!

I chose Albachiara Poetto Beach Club & Restaurant for lunch because it had a rooftop. Though on arrival I discovered that was only for private hire! Still, the terrace was a treat. [Read my review here.] I then wished I had booked a bed here too, although the beach was quite short to the shore and no matresses!

It was with a leap of faith I booked Jinny’s Beach. Not the boujiest but the best reviews, I could choose the position and knew it would be mine whenever I turned up, which wasn’t until mid-afternoon. I ordered an Aperol Spritz and promptly spilt it as I sat down and the bed sprung up! I am grateful no evidence of this exists. They were kind enough to replace it at no charge. The bed was basic but, as I was only staying a few hours, was fine. The ocean sat in front of me and I promptly fell asleep! A useful box by the bed meant I could store my belongings, so no fear of being robbed. I did miss a mattress though. Princess and the Pea. First-world problems!

As planned, I then road-tested Azur next door, six minutes’ walk, to be precise! After a sunset drink I then wished I had been here all day! Live and learn, and my learnings hopefully will help you. As Azur was more the vibe I was used to! Though like Albachiara, it turns into a full party zone after 11pm, but before that a chilled dinner at sunset is also an option!

One tip: I had planned to walk the stretch of the beach, beach-bar hopping, but July was just too hot to do even one! However, Uber will be your savior! One place I briefly tried but didn’t love how far from the beach it was, Antica Cagliari Lungomare Terrazza, said Uber would be ages and I should stay for lunch. Nice try! It came in three minutes! Though as mentioned earlier Uber and local taxis are the same price and not cheap.

Where to Eat in Cagliari

Somehow I managed to eat only on rooftops which you may expect but I do usually mix it up. So not to repeat my rooftop guide on Cagliari. But if I had to pick my top three for food would be Hotel Nautilus for breakfast Albachiara Poetto Beach Club & Restaurant for lunch. Cielo Rooftop for dinner.

Is Cagliari Expensive?

In a word: yes. Like anywhere, you can choose not to eat at the fancy places, choose the cheaper sun beds or bring a towel. But if you, like me, see trips as treats, then get saving as this was more expensive than I predicted. But I did choose the best places to enjoy as a birthday cancels out the credit card, right!

My Final Thoughts on Cagliari and Why You Should Visit

I have been and done many city combined beach breaks, from Lisbon to Sitges to Gibraltar, and Cagliari had never been on my radar. That really surprised me when I looked into it, as it has everything I love for a mini break. City rooftops, obviously. The beach, a sprinkling of culture, shopping and stunning sunset views! Plus, the ease of getting here was almost an insult that I had not been before. So if you’re looking for anything from a solo trip through to the whole family for a fun few days in Sardinia’s capital, I couldn’t recommend it more, particularly for the shoulder season. Just start saving now!